Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818594
Share on other sites

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

I believe you are referring to a diffuser mat.

aah00n if you want your car to sound good, get the deadening. Doesn't even have to be the whole door - I only had the forward half of my doors deadened and it made a significant improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818603
Share on other sites

now I've started something :laugh:

it makes a huge difference. camera isnt here but I'll show you a 33 door (beofre and after) when I find my camera.

the whole idea is to make the door as acoustically dead as possible (there is a LOT of tech to this but that is the gist of it,.) so you have almost zero refelctions and cancelation.

the foam stops the reflections the sound deadening stops the panels from moving by adding weight. the result is better sound and a quieter car when the music is off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818607
Share on other sites

Dont forget to add, that deadening the inner skin, separates the back speaker movement sound waves from the front there fore eliminating mid cancellation, and improving midbass ten fold :laugh:.

The Dynaxorb diffuser mats have specific ridges which disperse the backwaves and stop them from bouncing back onto the speaker cone, therefore improving power handling and less distortion.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

Edited by Adelaideprosound
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2819070
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Old post, see if someone notices it...

If I get my doors deadened, and the diffuser mat placed in, then change my door speakers later does the diffuser mat have to removed/reglued etc?

Does it connect to the speaker, or just go straight onto the door, moulded to the speaker depth etc?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292466
Share on other sites

yeah man as above fully worth it

Get some dynamat extreme or b-quiet

then put a layer behind where the speaker sits, then rip off the factory plastic, get all th sticky stuff off with meths

then cover the whole door, all the wholes, cut out the part where the speaker will go(cut it in triangles from the inside of the circle, so not just cutting round it, so make about 10 cuts from the centre to the outer diameter of the speaker

You'll be left with triangle strips, leave those in, put the speaker in and you'll really really notice the different :(

I'll try get pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292721
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of mine. I used mostly Bostik, but will be striping this back and using all Dynamat Extreme in the near future. SDing your ride will make a significant difference, I did the boot when it was striped out and it made a huge difference to quietening the exhaust.

10.jpg

04.jpg

05.jpg

And this is the FG weather/water shield I made to protect the speaker. It's covered in DME.

09.jpg

So you can see the inner and outer skins are done, I went so far as to wrap the side intrusion beams! The bostik is very easy to work with, you just heat up the panels (they are 500mmx500mm) and the become soft and easy to mould to panels. Similar to DM, you just peel backing of to expose a sticky side.

Hope this helps, and sorry about the phone pics, I didn't have a digi cam when I did the SDing.

Edited by rocketboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3295017
Share on other sites

Just did my parcel shelf today with Dynamat, all the rattles and squeaks are gone :laugh:, One wedge pack managed to do most of it, i didnt cover every single part of the shelf, but will when i get some more Dynamat. There was some left over but im about to tackle my front doors, so i dont want to run out and the odd shapes might come in handy. Should of taken a pic, will post it up when i move my splits to the rear and put my new ones in the front.

cheers

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3297199
Share on other sites

I did my doors a while ago now and it is great. It dropped out a fair bit of cabin noise and I have only done the doors. I probably went a little overboard but oh well. I want to do pieces of my rear parcel shelf and a bit on the inside of some of the flatter panels of the car at the rear.

Pics of what I did with my doors

post-13456-1187610154_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1187610204_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3299347
Share on other sites

I've had it all done too. Acess holes filled in with aluminium sheet, then that covered with dynamat. Those pads behind the speakers. Then the foam on the door cards as well to stop them rattleing, and to kill a bit more noise.

To say the least it made a HUGE difference. Mid bass was increased, road noise was reduced. The doors now also make that nice thud noise when they close. Which is just a perk I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3316911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...