Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got a set of 500cc injectors, adjustable cam gear, and new spark plugs fitted to my S2 R33 GTST. Since they all went in my car is idoling really rough when it is at idol, But when i turn on the AC the car seems to idol perfectly. This only occurs when the engine has reached its normal running temp. On cold nights and initial start up it idols fine with the AC on or off.

Could this be due to a lazy tune or parts not fitted properly

Why would the AC make the car idol better.

If any one can help it would be great so i have some information before i go back and ask the shop.

Thanks Guys

DAN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151777-rough-idle-when-ac-is-off/
Share on other sites

i'm not sure if RB's have one but CA18's have a seperate solenoid which controls idle when the A/C is on. If there was a problem with this it might explain why there's only a problem when the A/C is on. Hope that helps...

Thanks for the info guys.

I do have a power FC.

I just wanted to get some ideas so that when i go back to my tuner I have some input incase he turns around and says its normal or something like that. Ill get him to check al the things mentioned.

Thanks Again

DAN

  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you have FC disease! Try moving your AFM further away from the turbo inlet. You have upset the delicate nissan design/tune by running more boost, fuel etc.

Air is bouncing from the turbo inlet causing a pulse effect to the AFM and the ECU cannot compensate quickly of finely enough at idle.

When your A/C comes on the idle is increased enough that airflow is more stable across the AFM.

This is very common with mildly upgraded RB's.

Will always idle a little rough with 500cc injectors but can be minimised to be very slight.

Clean your aac valve and idle screw also, this may help. Cycle your idle screw full range of adjustment when cleaning also.

Rgds, Grippy

Interesting topic which i have to follow, changing injectors this w/e as the tuner reconed injectors. then may have to check that afm thingy, as my does the same, and yes i have thouroghly cleaned the aac as well, noticed with mine the timing jumps with this aswell, and once either fan or ac is on it sits normal aswell, Injectors on this case are deatchwerks 550 cc, On another note could it be battery power?

mine also burbles a little at idle, wouldnt say its a miss, and is smoother when the a/c is on! I have nismo 740's and they are trying to run at less than 1% at 900 rpm, i think its a load issue, and that my light frisby flywheel doesnt help!

Interesting topic which i have to follow, changing injectors this w/e as the tuner reconed injectors. then may have to check that afm thingy, as my does the same, and yes i have thouroghly cleaned the aac as well, noticed with mine the timing jumps with this aswell, and once either fan or ac is on it sits normal aswell, Injectors on this case are deatchwerks 550 cc, On another note could it be battery power?

No it cannot be battery power. You car will run with the battery removed. Start it up and try it out, pull the battery leads off and she keeps humming.

Grippy.

Doubt very much it would be the cam gear. Do any of you guys run after market blow off valves??

I had the same issue with my RB20 after upgrades. The big problem for me was the standard blow off valve was no longer venting back into the inlet pipe just before the turbo inlet. This was because I had a custom inlet pipe made. I had to remove the inlet pipe, have it modified so it could take a pipe from the blow off valve. It now still idles a little rough but only very slight. Before it was stalling and very rough.

The position of the AFM is also very critical to stop inlet pulse. I had to move mine further away also.

Grippy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...