Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got another tune at Hitmans and with the hiflow turbo by GCG should be able to get 230rwkw at least.Matt seems to think it`s the injectors not having a good spray pattern but I`ve seen others with hiflowed injectors get the power they want.We thought at first it may have been the cat but I`ve since changed it to a metal 3" and although I got an extra half pound boost he still can`t add more than 15 deg. total timing. Is that normal for the following setup?

Front mount

Split dump,3" all the way back and metal cat.

K&N panel.

GCG hiflow

Hiflow AVO injectors.(must admit they did look sus.Holes looked butchered but he says he flowed them twice to check)

18lbs boost to get 216rwkw.

I have an almost new set of injectors from a motor that had 32,000k`s on it so was thinking to put them in and run a bit more rail pressure but if that doesn`t work then I`ll have to buy new injectors anyway.

Any suggestions?

Edited by skylinecouple
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152013-injectors/
Share on other sites

if it was the injectors it would just lean out and be an uncontrollable lean

it sounds like he is having problems making power, check the cat

try and drop the dump pipe and leave the exhaust open mouthed. see what power comes out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152013-injectors/#findComment-2828596
Share on other sites

The intercooler is good front mount and have fitted cold air intake to air box and small hole facing headlight.Besides,we took the air box and filter out and made 2kw.I know the turbine housing is R33 because I just took it off to look,thats why it took so long to get back to the forum.Something I noticed though,the housing doesn`t seem as opened up as one of Slides.The turbo is maybe four years old now but making 18lbs.Only just turned it up in the last three months and rarely hit boost anyway.Besides,I`ve never felt totally confident is those hiflowed injectors so will change them anyway.Slide can do me a set for $940 for Nismo 555`s.At the same time will get him to redo the rear housing.

Edited by skylinecouple
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152013-injectors/#findComment-2833495
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
    • Ah. I dunno why, but I skim read your earlier post and thought the manual switch was to force it on, not force it off. I'd be tempted to have both. So, your two in series, and another in parallel with those. Or, a master arm switch, followed by the manual force on and the thermo in parallel. 6 and 2 3s.  
    • Yeah been doing it in an x shape. Do you reckon it's worth putting guide coat early where the filler isn't sanded down completely smooth? Reason I ask is because as I'm sanding it one part might be level which I don't need to sand anymore but the other part might be high so I can just focus on that instead of sanding across the whole repair area. I wonder if the putty is too thin, though the area is almost completely smooth before I do it as I've already put filler prior.
    • Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled.   I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...
×
×
  • Create New...