Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a stock car and as you may or may not know the turbo went bye bye recently due to or not due to a dump pipe installation that may have or may have not gone pear shaped when they were fiddling around my turbos holes... lol...

Anyway I was going to order a GT3040 the other day when I realised I dont want a lag monster of a car. So my descision is now a GT30R.

I was going to order the GT30R yesterday when I realised it just wasnt that simple. Garrett have a few flavours of the GT30 series...

GT30

GT3071R - 700382-3

GT3071R - 700382-20

GT3076R - 700382-12

I have no idea which one to order, is anyone able to tell me from the spec sheets located:

Turbo by Garrett

Under Medium section, GT30 series.

Any help is appreciated, would like to order one today.

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152068-garrett-gt30r-flavours/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You dont want either of those 3071's. You want this one;

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

What sort of power do you want? What sort of response/boost threshold? Answer these 2 questions and it will make it easier to pick a turbo.

Well my aim was 300kw at the end of this year, I want a turbo that can get the power at ~3000-3200 rpm. I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money to play around with another second hand turbo or new stock one from nissan.

Well my aim was 300kw at the end of this year, I want a turbo that can get the power at ~3000-3200 rpm. I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money to play around with another second hand turbo or new stock one from nissan.

If you were staying bog stock then the 3071 BHDave suggested would be slightly more responsive for 300 rwkw I would be going GT3076R - 700382-12 with the .63 AR turbine housing.

On a SR the power comes on about 3500 rpm the RB25/26 should come on around the 3000-3200 your looking for. I have spoken to a few people running them and they are a very streetable turbo for the larger RB engines.

Who are you planning to buy from? Morrie from HPinaBox generally has very prompt delivery and knows his stuff if you don't have someone already lined up.

I run a gt3076r with 0.82ar and its awesome response and power. I am only running 16psi and make 260rwkw (heaps more in it) on a really safe tune and with supporting mods. So I would recommend them on a rb25 and with the smaller 0.62 or 0.63 it would be even more responsive.

Paul,

3200rpm and 300rwkw. It won't be happeneing on an RB25. >_<

RB30 yes, but RB25 no. :happy:

You will be looking at ~4000rpm until your pinned in the seat.

Well on Shauns dyno anyway.

I was under the impression that he was looking for boost to start comming on around 3000-3200 not actually have the 300kw. It will be up towards red line before he get 300kw but boost should start to come on around 3000-3200.

Paul,

3200rpm and 300rwkw. It won't be happeneing on an RB25. >_<

RB30 yes, but RB25 no. :happy:

You will be looking at ~4000rpm until your pinned in the seat.

Well on Shauns dyno anyway.

It'll go close. Probably boost all in by 3400 and 280odd rwkw with the 3071 in .63 on the dyno.

Probably a touch sooner on the street in 4th.

Shit, if my old T300s lump can make 1.4 bar by 3200 in 4th on the street and go on to make 288rwkw, then a new generation 3071 in a .63 should decimate it response wise and have similar top end with better transient response.

I have a stock car
I was going to do a turbo upgrade 4 months from now after I had bigger injectors FMIC, management and all that jazz. But now I am forced to do it now, I got no time or money<snip>

U wont be wanting to stick a gt30 on by itself then. Unless u want another dead turbo soon, or can resist the right foot...

It'll go close. Probably boost all in by 3400 and 280odd rwkw with the 3071 in .63 on the dyno.

Probably a touch sooner on the street in 4th.

Shit, if my old T300s lump can make 1.4 bar by 3200 in 4th on the street and go on to make 288rwkw, then a new generation 3071 in a .63 should decimate it response wise and have similar top end with better transient response.

Yes thats fine.. :happy: I was talking about whats considered to be the real GT30r (6blade etc) .82 that will crack the 300rwkw mark.

That old T300s looked like quite a good thing by its dyno sheets. >_<

The GT3071r .63 I think will struggle past 260rwkw. They are responsive but..... well I really think GT3076r 6blade .82 is for 300rwkw, even then it is on its 'limit' and won't be done unless you run some good boost 20 odd psi, cams might possibly be needed. If you want to step down slightly and pick up a little more response grab the 52t GT37 comp wheel.

Discopotato03 is the man to speak to he knows all the ins and outs of the GT30 and its compressor wheels. He has a thread laying around in here some where.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...