Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Sold Moderators Please Delete Post

dazmo

By dazmo,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys I have decided to sell my R31 GTS-X I have owned the car for 10 years and have lost count of the money spent. The car is featured in issue 75 of High Performance Imports .The car has just had a fresh engine rebuild and has a balanced crank shotpeened & balanced rods nissan bearings and gaskets Arias forged pistons.The head has been extensivly ported and has hpc coated valves and combustion cambers a ported factory exhaust manifold and a GCG Gt3040 turbo,custom 3" stainless intercooler piping custom intercooler 650 X 200 X 75mm core,custom alloy radiator with twin davies craig thermo fans,Earls oil cooler kit with -10 braided lines,custom surge tank with bosch 044 motorsport fuel pump,mazda 12a turbo injectors sard fuel pressure regulator Blitz sbc id3 boost controller hks turbo timer and Tomei 240 kph speedo and a motec m48 ecu it is currently making 350 rwhp and definatly has more in it.It has bilstien inserts in the front & bilstien coilovers rear with whitline swaybars & super pro bushes throughout a custom tail shaft with 300zx universal joints and yokes, It is painted in r33 midnight purple and has gold fr17 simmons wheels.I am sure I would have forgotten to list some stuff If your interseted you can check out the full article in HPI. Would make a great drift car & would stand out of the crowd of slivias and r32's with it's classic shape nothing to spend and all round well sorted car with awsome performance.

NOW ASKING $ 12 500.00 PH 0417305401 SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD .

post-15992-1168998340.jpg

post-15992-1168998375.jpg

Edited by dazmo
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I cant believe no one has snapped this up a bargain at this price 350RWHP you could not get that sort of power for this money Brand new Engine !!!!

Edited by dazmo
  • 4 weeks later...
dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the kind words mate I have had a few pm's asking if I am interested in swaps so I thought I would mention that no swaps or trades will be considered.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Some one buy this car you are only paying for the turbo computer & wheels & getting everything else for free at this price.I need my shed space and is a lot of work to extend my shed would prefer to not have to !!!.

dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BUMP surely some one wants this car its a bargain at this price if you paid full price for the ecu wheels and turbo & intercooler/radiator you would just about be getting the car for nothing

davo79 Contributor

davo79

Posted
Posted

I feel your pain brother, I also have a R31 gtsx bought it 5 years ago and spent over 30k on the car now I cant even get serious offers around the 10,000 mark??? I wish I had sold it earlier but it seems that importers have flooded the market with so many r32's and r33's that the people are forgetting where these great cars have come from. I am under the impression that we are in the the in-between phase of our cars to old to be considering new model and to new to considered an old skool classic like your 70's models rotors for example. Hope you sell it bro good luck...........

davo79 Contributor

davo79

Posted
Posted

I feel your pain brother, I also have a R31 gtsx bought it 5 years ago and spent over 30k on the car now I cant even get serious offers around the 10,000 mark??? I wish I had sold it earlier but it seems that importers have flooded the market with so many r32's and r33's that the people are forgetting where these great cars have come from. I am under the impression that we are in the the in-between phase of our cars to old to be considering new model and to new to be considered an old skool classic. Hope you sell it bro good luck...........

dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the kind words mate i hear what you are saying I just cant believe that people would rather have a stock r32 33 gtst wich are a dime a dozen than a car like this that would be a lot more indervidual and quicker than the majority of gtst's out there.

  • 2 weeks later...
dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the comment mate.I personally prefer the rb20 over the rb25 as they seem to be able to cop a lot more punnishment and love to rev but the rb26 is another story all together if it did have an rb26 the price would be a bit more though as they are a lot dearer to mod and personally i dont think you would want to much more power in the r31 chassis than what the car already has if you did all you would be donig is leaving black lines where ever you went.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...