Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A huge amount, is it a track car or something? They relocate all the oil in your sump to another canister.. normally drop the engine down a bit to when they're doing it to drop the weight distribution a bit more. Looking at at least $5k, and will only notice the difference on a track, :D

I might also interested in doing a dry sump setup myself. But from the searching I have done on this forum you should err to the side of caution unless you don't care if you munch an engine. There seems to be more to it than just slapping a external pump on.

Its been covered a few times. Theres a fellow on here who set one up on his BNR32 recently, if he cares to raise his hand :laugh:

Multi stage pump, new sump, a reservoir with heater, and a butt load of speedflow fittings and lines. Its very popular on V8's. Check companies like Moroso and the likes in the US.

- M

peterson ftw!

If your mechanically minded...its relatively easy to do...its really just knowing or getting to know the little niggly bits to best suit an rb setup.

I can tell you...speedflow fittings and hose adds up to the same as the pump, tank, filters and bracketry....fricken expensive. When you start talking -16 fittings and hose......FARK!

are speed flow fittings and braided hose absolutely necessary? Couldn't you use high pressure hose with some heavy duty connections like powersteering uses? (just asking)

Edited by dontfeelcold

the pumps and tanks were designed to be used with speedflow fittings or something similar. If you wanted to change all the fittings on the pump and tanks over to another form then yeh you could, but i dont know how much you would save there having not done it before. We looked at using ryco steel fittings instead of the speedflow...but they are just too big and bulky and wouldnt fit especially at a -16 size. The speedflow worked just nice.

post-12828-1169117584.jpg

post-12828-1169117667.jpg

post-12828-1169117694.jpg

When weve fully finished and its all up and running ill start a thread outlining what we did, so there is some information available for others who are intending to do their own dry sump setup on an RB. Ours is on an rb30det fyi.

We are doing a pre season refresh on the Wholagan GTR so ill try to remember to take the camera to work and get some picks.

The sump was the toughest part because of the Diff and the cost got crazy for all the parts.No easy way of keeping Aircon so its a track setup.

We feed the oil back in the front of the engine as per the factory oil pump and use a bare nissan pump for the crank seal but cut the top of the pump of and welded the hole over and tapped a large speedflow fitting to the oil feed in the block.Its just as easy to pump the oil back to the oil filter boss but we already had a good cooler filter setup so it was easy to go the way we did.The engine is sealed up and the breathing for the engine is in the boot mounted tank.We used most parts 2nd hand from HRT but still spent close to 10k but oil has stopped being a problem in the years its been fitted,the engine is down for a refresh but looks like its been no more than run in,Little things like adjustable oil pressure and being able to drive the pump to prime the engine at rebuilds and oil changes is nice. Its easy to but ex touring car parts so look around but trust me,it costs much more than you will expect with just the hoses costing more than some ppl think the whole job will cost, but still less than one lost engine due to oil problems.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...