Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have a series I R33 GTS. I want to do a turbo conversion and have always had the idea that I would buy a GTSt half cut and do a whole engine, gear box etc. swap.

I've just found an opportunity, however, to buy an R33 turbo, actuator, elbow and manifold. I know I will still need a couple of other bits, i.e. fmic ;) , but I was wondering if I should forget this and stick with the idea of doing an entire engine swap with a half cut, or wack the turbo on my current engine.

A few things to consider

1. The gear box is different between the N/A and turbo. How much will this effect me?

2. Tuning the engine. Is it worth the hassle of getting this engine working with turbo or would it be easier to wait and get a half cut.

3. Cost, which is the cheaper option. I don't want a dodgy conversion, but I would like an idea after everything what is best.

4. My engine is just short of 140,000 k's, so its not too old, the turbo had done 70,000, so not too bad either.

5. Is there anything else I need to consider.

Thanks heaps for any info

R33-GTS

BTW, I did do a search and hav read the N/A to turbo conversion threads. I just need some more opinions :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152835-na-to-turbo-conversion/
Share on other sites

Alot of people will bag you for this conversion.

Firstly, are you on your P's or have a licence that is power retricted in any way ? - If so....... Wait.

If Not....

Go the front cut. By adding a turbo too a non-turbo car is dangerous. You need the whole braking package, ECU, stronger engine internals, diff might even be different, gearbox will matter...etc etc etc.... With a front cut, you'll get 80-90% of the parts you need in one bundle.......

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=33407

you should ask all the people in there.

theres no real point in asking people you havent done it. otherwise youl just get random info

Edited by sillylankan
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=33407

you should ask all the people in there.

theres no real point in asking people you havent done it. otherwise youl just get random info

I have read that entire thread as well as some others. There are many valid points and things to consider. As I said in my initial post, I have always been thinking that I would get a half cut, I just wanted some more info or opinions on the points I posted. I know about getting stronger internals etc, but the main reason why I was considering this is due to the N/A compression ratio. It means that with a turbo it hits boost pretty much instantly and pulls hard even at low revs. It can work provided you only boost to about 7psi. Any more and pistons will fry. Just trying to get more info and opinions before I make any decisions. I could get the gtst pistons and the compression will be able to handle greater amounts of boost.

... And AndyMac.

No I'm not on my P's or have a restricted licence. I'm 23 years old and got my licence at 17. I don't think I'm some superman driver or anything and I didn't buy the car because I saw it in a movie. I know a lot about the engine and would like to do most of the work myself where I can.

I bought an N/A R33 because I'd never driven a rear wheel drive before and wanted it to be a stepping stone rather than get into something with more power and not have my driving up to standard. I'm used to the rear wheel drive now that I've owned the car for a year and just want to do proper research before I decide exactly what I want to do.

Sorry about the rant. Just trying to get as much info as I can :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...