Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wait what has painting got to do with gasket? can't we use the old gaskets stuck it back on?

those blue sprays, I thought they were anodised colour? I'm actually after a champaign goldish colour~~

hi there just a heads up if yoru interested, i got the top half of my plenum polished but have since purchased an after market plenum so ye if your interested mine will be up for sale. im not sure if youve gotta price but its a c**t of a job to get the casting off and polish up.

if your interested its yours for 200 exhange with yoru stocko one.

can see pics ere

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=60546

dont wait for weeks to get this done peeps, BUY MY PLENUM already done

  • 1 month later...

Bringing this thread back from the dead I know.....

Can someone tell me if the guys at Briffa Engineering have another number other than the mobile one listed in this thread??

I am having some polishing work done there and when I rang to see if I was able to pick the parts up I got a guy that does not speak English so well - which is making it difficult to find out why and how long my job is being delayed.

I gathered from a brief (confusing) conversation on the phone: a machine of some sort is broken and they don't know when it will be fixed.

Just my luck. Looks like the car will be off the road for a little while longer than i'd hoped.

Anyway, just wanting to get hold of the younger guy I met there when I dropped off the parts to find out what the story is.

Cheers,

Tay

hey dude it must be his dad on the fone umm thats the only number just see if you can speak to mick in person not his dad if you got problems ill go down and see for ya as im there quite often

cheers

andrew

Ok cool. definately NO problems though. Mick seemed like a very genuine guy when I met him.

Sounds like they just broke something?

Was supposed to pick up tomorrow but I'll just leave it till later in the week and see how they go.

Appreciate the offer though Andrew.

Here's a quick snap straight after I put the cam covers back on.

Still got to clean up lots under the bonnet but I'm getting there.

Gotta add a few more bits of go fast bling like HKS fuel rail and and oil filler cap......and then when I get really bored I'll get the intake plenum done.

post-6697-1175519554.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...