Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Over the past few months my car has been making a real high pitch noise coming from the exhaust

side, so i decided to take a look, i have 2 broken studs one is at the back of the exhaust manifold an one is at the front, so my guess is that the exhaust gases are wistling on the gasket(maybe correct me if im wrong) but car has been running like crap, spiking an using a fair bit of fuel then usuall(350-400klm per tank) down to around(280-310klm per tank).

where an how much will it cost to get the studs drilled out an re-studded.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/
Share on other sites

depending on how bad the damage is, the studs will cost from say $80 upwards.

to give u an idea i payed 350 for 5 studs that were either broken, cross threaded, or put in crooked etc. completely stuffed.

other have payed just over 100 to take out 4 studs so i guess it depends who does it aswell

yeah that noise could be coming from the exhaust manifold gasket but get someone to check it before u do anything

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2859955
Share on other sites

also forgot to add, the parts from nissan are $120 for manifold gasket, aboujt $40 for turbo to manifold gasket, and about $3 each stud from nissan

also there are locking nuts ands special washers which i think are about $3 each aswell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2859959
Share on other sites

I got a new gasket from Autobarn for 12 bucks if that helps.

Dude I remember you being in QLD yeah? If I rembered correctly head down to Auto Barn on Moss street the parts manager there has a pretty good knowledge of Nissans and as such carries a good range range of stuff that is far cheaper than Nissan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2860015
Share on other sites

yeah im in qld, the studs have snaped off in the head, i have already pulled off the turbo an had it checked out an its in really good condition, an wen i put it on i had noticed that those two studs were broken, all others are ok. i do have a mate who can do it but he doesnt get much time he has a right angle drill.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2860034
Share on other sites

yeah im in qld, the studs have snaped off in the head, i have already pulled off the turbo an had it checked out an its in really good condition, an wen i put it on i had noticed that those two studs were broken, all others are ok. i do have a mate who can do it but he doesnt get much time he has a right angle drill.

shit wouldnt gotten somebody down here to do it for around 100-150 max

see these kinda jobs get shit when u dont have a hoist ya no.... otherwise piece of piss to do :sorcerer:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2860232
Share on other sites

You will probably find that your exhaust manifold is warped and will need machining before you can fit new studs (replace all of them not just the broken 1's).

From memory it cost me about $350 drive in drive away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153784-broken-studs/#findComment-2860747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...