Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what is generally considered the ideal turbo for a rb20det and what kinda hp will it flow?

I you've got 10 g to spend I've either save my money - sell it and buy a gtr. OR rb30 conversion - if you've got the mechanical knowledge the 10g will go a long way towards 300+rwkw and extreme torque.

Cheers

AS ABOVE....

Or if you want to keep your car and engine and have a streetable car as mentioned speak to slide on this forum or contact GCG about getting a highflow.

Value for money they are awesome being able to keep standard manifold/dump pipe etc. You could get 220-240 rwkw out of an rb20 with right supporting mods/tune etc.

Hope that helps

Also try the rb20 thread to look at how others have gone about modding theirs and their results.

Cheers,

Ryan

ten G is a fair wack of coin my friend! you have some great options as mentioned. Get a 32 GTR would be my pick, or if you want to stick with your car, use the money to put an RB26 in there and almost have a GTR.

Best advice from myself who has seen a lot of money lost from upgrading mods i already upgraded, then got bored of: dont waste your money on the rb20 or even a 25, go an RB26 and you'll have a platform that can lazily be a 160rwkw daily to a 300+rwkw street weapon or sleeper.

Ive spent a small fortune making my rb25 pretty sweet (which in all fairness it is), but im ready to throw an rb26 in there after much time and money spent.

cheers, enjoy your spending!

ten G is a fair wack of coin my friend! you have some great options as mentioned. Get a 32 GTR would be my pick, or if you want to stick with your car, use the money to put an RB26 in there and almost have a GTR.

Best advice from myself who has seen a lot of money lost from upgrading mods i already upgraded, then got bored of: dont waste your money on the rb20 or even a 25, go an RB26 and you'll have a platform that can lazily be a 160rwkw daily to a 300+rwkw street weapon or sleeper.

Ive spent a small fortune making my rb25 pretty sweet (which in all fairness it is), but im ready to throw an rb26 in there after much time and money spent.

cheers, enjoy your spending!

Thanks for the advice mate

To go the route of an engine swap to a rb26 would 10k cover all the cost?....buying the engine, having it install with the microtech etc (i dont want to stuff around with standard comp), would the gts4 gearbox be able to stand up to the extra strain of a 26 or would i need a gtr box? More $$$

Like you say you dont want to be revisting things you have already modified and spend $$$ on because your not happy, thats why im on here, want to get in right the first time

Thank again for your help

Thanks for the advice mate

To go the route of an engine swap to a rb26 would 10k cover all the cost?....buying the engine, having it install with the microtech etc (i dont want to stuff around with standard comp), would the gts4 gearbox be able to stand up to the extra strain of a 26 or would i need a gtr box? More $$$

Like you say you dont want to be revisting things you have already modified and spend $$$ on because your not happy, thats why im on here, want to get in right the first time

Thank again for your help

couldnt tell you about the strengths of a gts4 box.. im sure someone will jump in and tell you if its the same as a gtr one anyway.

It depends on which way you wanna go, if you can find a 26 that you know is healthy and can just drop it in, i would think 10g would cover everything. But if you want to add some new turbos, injectors and start modding the 26 then you may be looking at more. even some decent second hand upgrade turbo's could fit your bill. Theres a fairly recent thread i started, asking cost of putting a 26 into my gts-t.

edit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...152866&st=0

check out R31Nismoids posts, esp #5 to give you some pricing ideas...

But personally i think selling and finding a nice 32GTR would be best idea as at the very least youll have better brakes, seats, and not to mention a legend parked in your driveway!!

Edited by SLY33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...