Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, just wondering what the differences between the r32 and r33 turbos are, i just turboed my na and i had an r33 turbo on it and it had a fu*ed oil seal, the turbo spechilist said the best quility turbo he had was an r32 turbo and that there was no difference betweeen either of them and they have the same air ratios.

After this has been changed i've noticed the turbo defanatly spools quicker, and the actuator is set higher, i have to change the actuator but is there any other differences.

The turbo specialist...

Is 100% not a specialist if he is telling you that.

R33 turbos and R32 turbos are not the same, and the R32 turbo is older so i highly doubt its better quality.

The R32 turbo, for the sake of an easy answer, is smaller than an RB25 turbo.

1) Makes less power

2) Doesnt hold boost aswell due to its small size

Upside is it will be more responsive, but the RB25 turbo is the choice.

i thought the r32 turbo was smaller that is what everyone was saying but i had the car at a reputable tuning place and they talked to and bought the turbo off a reputable turbo speciilist, oh well kinda got ripped a bit but oh well at 7 psi it wont really matter that much kinda better it spools earlier not that it needs it with the high comp

well i would rather not say the name cause thats agiasnt the forum rules, but they have been reckomended a fair few times on this very sight, ohh well mabye i miss-understood something they said

mm looks pretty damn obvious doesnt, i thought that it was smaller too, thats y i asked them the question twice, he said the turbo spech said it was the same spechs, mmm i got to go bak anyways ill ask agian mabye the r32 turbo was moddifyed intake chamber or something, ill look at the turbs on the car in the morn as well,

rb20 vs rb25

you can see the 25 is larger

post-2054-1170151464.jpg post-2054-1170151484.jpgpost-2054-1170151497.jpg

I recognise those pics. :no:

Running at the moderate boost levels that either can supply, I'd say it's less the case that the RB20 won't hold boost, than it won't push as much air at the same boost level.

ie. less power capability. The pics show how/why.

To assist people wanting answers using the search function.

For those that can only look at one turbo when wanting to know the differences the markings on the housing will reveal all.

The R32 turbo has 16v stamped on the compressor cover and is the only comprssor cover used on RB20 turbo's.

The R32 turbo most of the time has the smaller 16v or 04u stamped turbine housing. (some 1993 models have the RB25 21u turbine housing)

The R33 turbo has 45v1, 45v2, 45v3, 45v4 stamped on the compressor cover.

The R33 turbo has 21u stamped on the turbine housing.

The R33 turbo as stated above is larger.

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...

hey guys i dnno if u can help me with this but i just brought a standard series 2 r33 turbo for my series 1 and the turbo's are different sizes, not by much but the bit that the intake piping bolts onto is bigger on the series 2, a mate keeps telling me the only difference should be a steel wheel as opposed to ceramic

ok so i pulled them off and put them side by side ans the new turbo has 45v1 and the old turbo has 16v11 on it... did i get ripped off from factory or something. and should the banjo bolts fit straight across

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...