R33 Rb30 Conversion

[GTR-Ben]

And i'm still going! *energizer bunny*

Get some vids for us Joel.

[Cubes]

I've had to edit the crap out of the vid as it showed my number plate every where.

So don't mind the chops.

This was the initial start *note bits still hanging everywhere*

It was started with only the dump & front pipe on.

The lifter noise has since gone away as they require a few rev's and a bit of running to pump up.

I took her for a little drive. I'm going to have some fun with this RB30..

Acceleration away from the lights in a merging left lane is so so easy where auto's and playing around with the clutch to get off the line without looking like a hoon is no longer a worry.

I've wired the wastegate open as it was making boost all the time, as soon as I would touch the accelerator it would be on boost so it really isn't an option to run 11psi just off idle for the run in.

Its nice to be able to short shift in to the next gear and still power on with no hassles.

Ben, in your S13 its going to be an absolute weapon.

A very enjoyable weapon to drive around.

You could easily have a massive turbo that starts pulling from 4000-4500rpm with the 3ltr as it has so much off boost acceleration it doesn't really matter.

Drive a RB20DET then jump in to a RB25.. Note the difference then multiply that difference by an easy 2 as that is what the RB30 feels like.

It definitely feels like it has heaps more torque down low than my old VS V8 5speed Slugadoor.

EDIT: XVid Codec is required to view the video.

It can be found here - <click click>

It does almost feel like it needs a taller diff ratio though.

See how it goes once the turbo is up and overspeeding..

[Skyrine-Dave]

Excellent work!!!

Mine is due for collection next thursday, so hopefully i can be joining you in the RB30 goodness soon. I've been 7 months without a car.. so i'm in for a world of learning and grinning

Get some footage of the thing driving

[Alf]

Mine is due for collection next thursday, so hopefully i can be joining you in the RB30 goodness soon

The bottom end is due to go into the workshop next week when the rods n pistons arrive. Only had the bottom end for 2 weeks, I want to drive it now! :burnout:

[Cubes]

I will get a vid of driving it without the exhaust lol..

[Cubes]

One quick question..

I've noticed since the RB30 it tends to turn over a little slower.

My old man tends to think it could be due to the rb20t starter motor not being designed for the larger motor in turn it draws more amps hence I may need a bigger battery.

Previously the battery was always really zippy in turning over the rb20t..

OR could it be that my earth to the block isn't that good due to paint?!?!?

OR is it just the motors fairly tight still??

I was in the car park yesterday, walked out from the shops went to turn it over and it only just turned over then stopped. I backed off and did it again this time starting.

I remember Darrens R32 RB30DET doing some thing similiar also.

I'm starting to think maybe it is the starter motor not designed for the bigger motor.?!?

It would be interesting to see if the part number varies between the RB20 and RB25 starter motors.

[dnb]

use an rb30 starter.

[Cubes]

haha yer.. I've got a spare one sitting in the BT1 in the shed.

[Alf]

use an rb30 starter.

When using an RB30 you need to be careful what one you use as there is two types, an hitachi and another type, this applies to VL not sure about R31 tho.

The hitachi is rated at 70amps.

[daisosasen01]

Hi, I think the problem is you are underestimating how much of pain in the ass it is to send an engine half way around the world.  Customs clearance, quarantine inspection, duty declaration, sea freight organisation, packaging and road transport to the wharf etc etc.  It's not so bad when you are sending an engine with some value, but is it the same amount of work for a $400 engine as it is for a $6,000 engine.  In fact it is even more work because a freshly built engine will pass inspection easily, a dirty, oily, old, used engine is not so easy.

Plus I guarantee you that you will not be able to rebuild an RB30 (to whatever spec) cheaper in the US than what we can downunder.  It's false economy, but your choice nonetheless.

Please get back to me. I wanna enjoy the motor just like everyone else is.

[email protected]

thanks

gus

[Bl4cK32]

When using an RB30 you need to be careful what one you use as there is two types, an hitachi and another type, this applies to VL not sure about R31 tho.

The hitachi is rated at 70amps.

Mines been great since using the 550CCA battery...no more startup probs....

[dnb]

hello all i have a question. and yes i have read the whole thread!(holds head)

how did you guys fit the idler to the rb30 block as there is no machined surface for it to sit against

[Cubes]

Read the RB30 Guide PDF.. Its got pics there.

[dnb]

i have it has nothing about it . im talking about where it hits the block

[Cubes]

Don't worry about it then..

Drill and tap where it states and you will be fine.

Its a flat surface above the water pump. Thats all you need.

[dnb]

im using the second method.the original tensioner isnt the problem, its the original idler,you cant just simply bolt it on as described in the guide

[Cubes]

I'm not sure if i've updated it since.

I had to use two tensioners. One in the lower position and one in the upper to get the belt tension.

[dnb]

yep but what i am saying is where you mount the second tensioner(original idler) the block isnt flat nor is it level with the machined surface that the other tensioner bolts to.

i can work it out myself i just thought you guys had already done it and would know what i needed to do

[Cubes]

hrmm.. Not sure..

Its flat?!? other wise the origional idler wouldn't bolt up.

And when you say it isn't the same level... I will have to check that as mine was...

I simply bolted up the tensioner on above the waterpump and in the origional idler location and it was all sweet.

[Cubes]

Pic.