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Looks the same as mine. :P

With regards to reversion.. I'm unsure.

I do need a lot of ignition timing other wise I get detonation and massive flat spots but this could be also due to the slightly lower static comp ratio.

I'm really unsure. I've got an RB20t head sitting around, i'm going to check out the cam specs and see how it may work with the 3ltr.

I have lost a little fuel economy (From 470km/s per tank to 410km's per tank).

I put it down to the way the 3ltr drives, its always on boost and always grating the rear tyres.

Be sure to check if your head needs shimming to give it a little more seat tension. My head was apparently fine where as Darrens definately needed shims.

Its almost like all heads were tested, the crappy ones were used for N/A and the good ones for turbo.

If you have the money for cams and valve springs do it. :)

If not do with what you have until its run in, see how it goes then change them. Its not a big issue to change cams and springs at a later date.

---------------

If I were to do it again.. I would have listed to SK and gone the 9:1 comp ratio instead of listening to my engine builder and sticking with a 8.2-8.3:1.

Interesting Joel , I want to use a higher CR like 9.0 and am curious to see what sort of timing such an engine uses . I'm aiming to use a GT30R or at least a GT30 turbine to minimise exhaust restriction so as to not resort to low timing numbers on boost to prevent detonation . what do your timing figures look like Joel ?

Thanks A .

My timing figures.. I have no idea. It hasn't been tuned properly yet.

I know comparing the base ignition timing in the ecu of darrens powerfc its around 43degree's or there abouts and 15degree's at the crank. Mine is 22degrees and 20 degrees at the crank and still needs more ignition timing. :P

I'm saving my $$ to get this powerfc.

Also more ignition timing in reversion circumstances is better than pulling timing out.

Is there a way of identifying cams when not in the engine?

There are no markings on the cams besides the purple and orange markings which i would assume would be for inlet and exhaust.

cams.jpg

The valve springs are marked orange for the inlet.

inletvalve.jpg

And pink for the exhaust.

exhaustvalve.jpg

In regards to the engine builder it took me ages to find someone who is old school and has built RB30DET's before and has proof of building tough Rb's like IWIN (33 vspec 750rwhp).

I'm not putting the head on till i see the differences with my own eyes.

I know comparing the base ignition timing in the ecu of darrens powerfc its around 43degree's or there abouts and 15degree's at the crank.

That sounds about right :P

I'll post up a dyno after friday. Mine goes in for its first full power run (if u can call it that, with the rb20 highflow turbo :))

The R33 N/A and Turbo cams are identical, including the lobe center angle.

Its only in the R32's where the N/A and Turbo cams are different.

The N/A cams in the R32's run a slightly smaller duration, this would be to shift peak torque a little lower I would imagine.

joel theres nothing wrong with using more timing :) we turned it up on my stock internally rb25 with t04 running 10psi and it would spin the wheels all the way to 100km/hr on a dry day :)

im sure u know that the lower cr the more timing u use ;)

There must be a way to identify a bare head by its casting number,marks,codes.

I've started a thread on the subject showing what mine are http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=58720

If you guys have pics or any info on the head that u r using post it up so we can compare.

joel theres nothing wrong with using more timing ;) we turned it up on my stock internally rb25 with t04 running 10psi and it would spin the wheels all the way to 100km/hr on a dry day :thumbsup:

im sure u know that the lower cr the more timing u use :thumbsup:

Its not so much that its more the economy, better response, more power on a lower boost not to mention the potential with the high cr. combined with a nice set of aftermarket cams. We all know big cams like lots of compression. :)

It has excellent response now but I'm a bit of a what if person.

What if it was running 9:1. :)

Just a piece of info that will help those building there engines themselves...

ACL Main cap bearings, i use the race ones ie harder casing material better resistance to oil and scuffing

Part No: 7M2394HX-STD <- this is where you tell them the journal size, i was lucky my mains journals just needed a polish thus i got STD or standard, no linishing was carried out)

Just had a box sitting here thought id type it up for youse!!!

Daniel.

I ended up going the King bearing route.

http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html

Some reading to why they went from the trimetal to their bi-metal alecular bearing material.

But what would I know. It sounds good what they are stating but is it really.. lol

I need your thoughts on the below.

Should the rb30 bottom end/ 25head need blueprinting?

The engine is going to be making somwhere in the 600 flywheel hp mark, the bottom end has scat rods, arias forgies, acl race bearings, rb26 harmonic balancer, N1 oil pump, O ringed block, cyo'd/shot peened crank, ARP rb26 head stud kit and rb30 girdle bolts, plus the machining reqd.

The s2 na block has done 240,000 and the insides are in good nick, even the standard nissan big end bearings have little wear.

For the guys who haven't blueprinted their engines, how long has urs lasted?

I need your thoughts on the below.

Should the rb30 bottom end/ 25head need blueprinting?

The engine is going to be making somwhere in the 600 flywheel hp mark, the bottom end has scat rods, arias forgies, acl race bearings, rb26 harmonic balancer, N1 oil pump, O ringed block, cyo'd/shot peened crank, ARP rb26 head stud kit and rb30 girdle bolts, plus the machining reqd.

The s2 na block has done 240,000 and the insides are in good nick, even the standard nissan big end bearings have little wear.      

For the guys who haven't blueprinted their engines, how long has urs lasted?

I don't think many actually go to the trouble of blueprinting.. especially the block.

I have a blueprinted RB26 block.. it made no real difference to anything.

The head also flows so well as it is.. no real point for that power.

Mine only had the basic crank, bigend & mains blueprint to ensure all the little gaps were spot on.

It is definately setup tighter than the old rb20det.

On a cold start with the old 20w50 running in oil pressure was up close to 9kg.

With the thinner 10w30 pressure is down to just under 8 on a cold start.

Once warm it is just over 6 when reving, just over 4 on cruise and around 2 on idle.

With the thicker oil there was a noticable increase in oil pressure.

The rb20dets oil pressure never changed when playing with different oil viscosities. It had done 170,000km's though. :P

The way I under stand blueprinting is, it is everything to do with the motor to make sure it is 100% for the application.

Just to list a few

  • mains
  • bigends
  • Crank run out & end play
  • rods & side clearance
  • Piston clearance
  • piston ring gap
  • piston ring to groove clearance
  • cylinder wall finish
  • quench clearance
  • & ensuring the head is 100%, if not machine or what ever you have to do to make it so. :P

Yes buddy.. Name change.. :D

A little less identifiable.

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