Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, up for sale is my pride and joy :P

stickerphoto.jpg

Make/Model:

- 1994 Nissan Skyline R33 gts-t (Series 1)

- Very recently serviced, and regularly serviced! both rocker cover gaskets replaced, NGK Iridium plugs, mobil 1 10W30, PureOne filter, fluids replaced. Only the best ;)

- 157,000 kms

Engine/exhaust:

- RB25DET

- 3" Stainless Catback Exhaust with Lukey oval resi, magnaflow oval stainless muffler with custom 5" tip

(Custom job done by Mark from Exhaust Technology, one of a kind muffler)

- High flow cat converter

- 3" front pipe

- Apexi Power intake

- BLITZ Intercooler kit

- Manual boost controller running 11.5 psi

- Walbro intank fuel pump. capable of around 280 kw at

Suspension:

- Tien Coilovers - Height & rebound adjustable.

- Adjustable front castor rods

Wheels & tyres:

- 18x8 AMG rims x4

- Toyo 235x45x18 on the fronts

- Bridgestone Potenza 235x45x18 on the rears

Driveline:

- 6 puck ceramic clutch

with heavy duty pressure plate

Entertainment:

- Pioneer MP3 headunit with LCD Display, 3 stereo RCA outputs.

- Pioneer 6" front splits

- Cadence 6x9's

- Fusion 4 ch. amp

- Sony Xplod 2 ch. amp

- Pioneer 12" subwoofer

Accessories:

- BLITZ boost guage

- NISMO leather gear knob

- Leather shifter and handbrake boot

- VIPER alarm - 2 way pager with motion sensor, turbo timer and remote start - installed by Tonkins Marion.

- 35% "Midnight Express" window tint from Tint-a-car

Brakes:

- A bit of red paint :O

Body:

- M-spec front bar with support removed

- 400R sideskirts & rear pods

- GTR style front grille and r32 gtr style bonnet lip. (Fresh paint)

- Body coloured rear boot garnish

- Nismo clear side indicators

- Stealth rear boot-lip ("Drift lip") with custom eye-level brakelight

Oil:

- Mobil 1, 10w-30

- PureOne oil filter

- Redline lightweight shockproof gearbox oil

Last dyno reading:

- 187rwkw @ boostworx, before the high flow cat and new exhaust (old exhaust was crumpled at the rear, restricting flow). Estimated current power is around 192-195 rwkw

Notes:

- Car has been in the country since 2000.

- Located in SA, Southern suburbs of Adelaide.

- Also including an adjustable Cam Gear with the sale.

- All inspections are welcome.

- Most receipts available.

- When I bought the car in july it had just had the radiator flushed and radiator top tank replaced.

- There is a possibility to negotiate on price by knocking some things off the list above. Things I will remove are:

- Stereo, rear lip (replace with stock), clear side indicators (replace with stock), Wheels if you can provide your own.

- Serious offers considered.

- Car has just under 6 mths rego.

Reason for sale:

- I have only had the car since July. I have loved every second of ownership, but I need to get my life back on track, pay out my loan and finish off my degree this year without any financial hassles. This car has been great to me. It was a great purchase ever since the day I bought it and although I love it some circumstances have changed for me and I have needed to sort out my priorities very quickly. I am not a con artist and I will not lie to you. I have had my fair share of dodgy traders and I will not be one of them.

Pics:

(Please note, exhaust pictured is not the Stainless exhaust mentioned.)

01.jpg

05.jpg

07.jpg

Bigger pics (and more pics) available on request. Underbonnet looks like this:

finished.jpg

Asking Price:

- $13,500 ONO

Price drop to $13,500!

Contact me on 0412 002 964 anytime, or at home on 08 8296 9208.

Or catch me online (email or msn) here: [email protected]

I may be interested in swaps for something of much lesser value + cash my way. Let me know what you have to offer :)

Edited by Mike_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154465-r33-gtst-massive-price-drop-13500/
Share on other sites

It's going up on carsales within the next week!

If I havent sold it by midyear I'll be keeping it

Will also throw in two spare 235x45r18 Bridgestone Potenzas with 50% tread!

Edited by Mike_

Car now has a walbro fuel pump, and also has an adjustable cam gear going on soon.

$400 will get you a 400R front bar fitted and painted, then it will be fully kitted!

This car is a great buy for whoever buys it.

Edited by Mike_

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...