Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i've been offered some R34 GTR injectors (part #0010 9718D) apparently 460cc in exchange for my spare RB20 box. What i'm wondering is 1) will they fit (do i need different rubber 'o' rings) and 2) will i need a ballast resistor from the 34 or 32 to fix the resistance difference.

Any info guys would be great, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155140-r34-gtr-injectors-into-rb20/
Share on other sites

Yes they will work as long as you set the resistor pack up to suit and the injectors are top feed?.

Do a search - this has been done to death.

At 40psi my R34 GTR injectors flowed 480cc.

They fit up perfectly but you do need to trim/melt a lug off the injector to fit up to the std plugs.

If your std inj plug boots are cracked look at replacing them with VL items, they are a direct fit to the gtr injectors.

I bought cheapo plugs from Motortraders/Coventrys. $16 a pair so total $48.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...