Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put some r33 gtst or r32 gtr calipers and rotors on it, its definately needed if u do any spirited driving as the stock brakes are horrible and with automatic u cant use the gears to slow u down either :P

Brad

Any indication of how much this would cost to do?

Cheers, Al

here in japan i can get the calipers for around 140 for hte front

and rotors for around 300 new

Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

Oh, and Kylie, I thought the front pads were DB1250's? Might have to take them down for cross-referencing when the time comes to change mine... Like Leetom said, if you can't take one off and take it with you when you go to buy some, take a piece of paper and trace around one of the pads and take that to the parts shop to check against.

Hey Al im unsure on costs sorry, i know the 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers (both the same) are fairly cheap, around $400 for a front pair as a rough estimate and slotted 297mm rotors from DBA would be around $400 for the pair as well. i bought the 34 brembos and 330mm rotors so i dont know about the other calipers/rotors except that they definately bolt on :P

good luck and catch u guys on the cruise tommorow :)

I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Other than that, it was an easy job, saved me about NZ$200. At my last service, they said that they needed doing, and they would do it for NZ$140 + skimming. My front discs did not need skimming so I did it myself.

Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

im actually trying to see if i can mail stuff to you guys so i can pass on the japan price deals!

Hey Kylie

whenever you are changing pads and compressing the brake pistons in, just remember to get someone to watch the fluid level in the resevoir, as if it is full up and you do both without looking it can overflow. The level will rise as the calipers are pushed in. Brake fluid is not good for your engine bay!

Also you can use the tiptronic (to change down) in the S2 to slow the car, or in an S1 change down, into 2. It does help a bit.

So, does anyone have a complete set of Stagea calipers that they want to get rid of? I am looking for the 2 piston fronts and the rears that take the DB1144 pads (though will consider others). I am in Canberra, if that makes a difference.

Cheers,

Matt

Edited by Matty T
I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Not sure what you got, nor have I changed my pads before on my S2 Staj. But maybe the ABS has something to do with the above problems.??

I forgot to take pictures

I'm sorry, but if you want to remain a bonafide member of this forum you will have to go back and take pictures...and we dont care if it is raining...or snowing...pics or ban!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...