Jump to content
SAU Community

How Do You Change The Brake Pads?

IMPORTD

By IMPORTD,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Red Sky II Rising Star

Red Sky II

Posted
Posted
put some r33 gtst or r32 gtr calipers and rotors on it, its definately needed if u do any spirited driving as the stock brakes are horrible and with automatic u cant use the gears to slow u down either :P

Brad

Any indication of how much this would cost to do?

Cheers, Al

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
here in japan i can get the calipers for around 140 for hte front

and rotors for around 300 new

Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

Oh, and Kylie, I thought the front pads were DB1250's? Might have to take them down for cross-referencing when the time comes to change mine... Like Leetom said, if you can't take one off and take it with you when you go to buy some, take a piece of paper and trace around one of the pads and take that to the parts shop to check against.

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted

Hey Al im unsure on costs sorry, i know the 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers (both the same) are fairly cheap, around $400 for a front pair as a rough estimate and slotted 297mm rotors from DBA would be around $400 for the pair as well. i bought the 34 brembos and 330mm rotors so i dont know about the other calipers/rotors except that they definately bolt on :P

good luck and catch u guys on the cruise tommorow :)

sy300 Collaborator

sy300

Posted
Posted

I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Other than that, it was an easy job, saved me about NZ$200. At my last service, they said that they needed doing, and they would do it for NZ$140 + skimming. My front discs did not need skimming so I did it myself.

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted
Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

im actually trying to see if i can mail stuff to you guys so i can pass on the japan price deals!

Appealing Proficient

Appealing

Posted
Posted

Hey Kylie

whenever you are changing pads and compressing the brake pistons in, just remember to get someone to watch the fluid level in the resevoir, as if it is full up and you do both without looking it can overflow. The level will rise as the calipers are pushed in. Brake fluid is not good for your engine bay!

Also you can use the tiptronic (to change down) in the S2 to slow the car, or in an S1 change down, into 2. It does help a bit.

Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted (edited)

So, does anyone have a complete set of Stagea calipers that they want to get rid of? I am looking for the 2 piston fronts and the rears that take the DB1144 pads (though will consider others). I am in Canberra, if that makes a difference.

Cheers,

Matt

Edited by Matty T
3intheBack Rising Star

3intheBack

Posted
Posted
I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Not sure what you got, nor have I changed my pads before on my S2 Staj. But maybe the ABS has something to do with the above problems.??

3intheBack Rising Star

3intheBack

Posted
Posted
I forgot to take pictures

I'm sorry, but if you want to remain a bonafide member of this forum you will have to go back and take pictures...and we dont care if it is raining...or snowing...pics or ban!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...