Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm talking performance i dont waste my money on visuals haha and i have no idea why it says RB20e but its THe RB20DET that is in my car not the RB20E

and how can i change how it says RB20E too RB20DET because thats what i have not the RB20e i dont even know how that got there

<<<<<<<<<

<<<<<<<<<

Edited by CalgaryGTS4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899024
Share on other sites

I'm talking performance i dont waste my money on visuals haha and i have no idea why it says RB20e but its THe RB20DET that is in my car not the RB20E

and how can i change how it says RB20E too RB20DET because thats what i have not the RB20e i dont even know how that got there

<<<<<<<<<

<<<<<<<<<

It shows we are noobie posters...

It auto modifys or you can get custom ones (depending on if your know the Mods or donations etc)

I hear money makes them happy.. and beer or burbon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899096
Share on other sites

to change the thing in your avatar:

go to "my controls", "edit profile information" then type what you want in "Custom member title".

as for mods, the most important mod to do before anything else is exhaust. there is no point putting more air in if it can't get out. try to go full turbo back, or at least cat back. then go air filter. then you can put a touch more boost in, but don't go above about 9psi on the stock cooler in summer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899202
Share on other sites

mmm 300hp = mods ive listed with upgrading turbo option and an aftermarket ecu, that should give u a nice power figure as well as handling. ur prob lookin between 4000-7000 dependin on what brand mods u buy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899486
Share on other sites

fast = expensive.

"cheap performance" is a bit of a myth. and 300hp = 220 kW (get metric, buddy), read the 200kw rb20 thread. over 100kW/L...

(yeah, the imports are 'cheap performance'. 160 kW from 2L for under 15k, AND 4wd... is pretty good value for money).

spend some time searching the forums for more budget upgrades first.

if you really want the power, you will have to run big boost, huge rpm, or more cubes (I vote 1 AND 3).

Have some fun with the car. Play with the 4wd (r32 is ok) so that you appreciate the handling difference. Then look for upgrades. "First Mods" - like I said. search the forum. exhaust, intake, handling kit, then start looking at more dollars and more individual choices.

--ebola

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899629
Share on other sites

lol ok well it all depends on what particular mods and what brands ur gonna buy. it could cost u around 4000-6000 just for parts plus dont forget i only listed a few mods u still need the supporting mods like fuel pump, fuel reg, injectors, etc its best if u find out exactly what u want and then research different models, makes and prices and then purchase them according to your needs and funds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899642
Share on other sites

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTST.htm

check that website out its got a budget guide on how to acheive the power level u wanted without hassle. pretty easy i say especially if ur uncle is a mechanic and ur gonna get free labour following this guide shouldnt cost u much as it uses second hand parts from later model skylines which are ideal upgrades for the r32's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155935-first-mods/#findComment-2899737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...