Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just recently there was a report on the Autosalon Circuit Battle. the following is a list of cars that attended:

MX-5

Nissan 300ZX

Honda Civic

Mitsubishi EVO's IV, VI, VIII, IX

BMW M Roadster (99)

Honda S2000 turbocharged

Nissan 180SX

Nissan skyline - a HR31 not that great and a R33 GT-R

Porsche GT3

BMW M3

BMW 328

Honda Integra(type R)

Lotus Exige

Subaru WRX

out of all these cars that participated, the MX-5 came out on top :laugh: the mx-5 was built by a workshop called Mania down in sydney. it was turbocharged running about 10psi i believe, only about 140kw at the wheels, and weighed about a tonne.

this just goes to show that boats like the gtr and M3 really arent that quick when you put them up againt a small roadster with similar mods. just remember, almost every other car there had a heap more power than the mx5 as well. all the drivers were of about the same skill level as well, and frequented the tracks.

so next time you pull up next to a "hairdresser's car" dont laugh, its better than you :)

IMG_3949.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156093-something-interesting/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hahaha mike i see in that list there isnt a black 32 gtr, the gtr i'm talking about took this event out last time round, and he's a member on here, giant. it'd be interesting to see just what suspension/handling/body mods that mx5 has

i'm gonna laugh so hard when u get ur mx5 up here and u get pwned by others on here :)

hahaha mike i see in that list there isnt a black 32 gtr, the gtr i'm talking about took this event out last time round, and he's a member on here, giant. it'd be interesting to see just what suspension/handling/body mods that mx5 has

i'm gonna laugh so hard when u get ur mx5 up here and u get pwned by others on here :)

there was a black 33 gtr i believe. i think there was another one but it broke down.

here is a full build-up report for the car that won link

what if i dont come back? what are you going to do then shane? i could just not show up here?

there was a black 33 gtr i believe. i think there was another one but it broke down.

here is a full build-up report for the car that won link

what if i dont come back? what are you going to do then shane? i could just not show up here?

aww ur not going to leave caus of a bit of banter, albeit it true banter :)

What pair is quicker Mike?

10b.jpg

HI5 :sorcerer:

aww ur not going to leave caus of a bit of banter, albeit it true banter :kiss:

just you :kiss:

I am still to over take a turbo MX5 at trackday...

I have a hard enough time catching the N/A ones little loan catching the turbo chargered ones...

Slippery little buggers... Ill get them now tho GT30 style... :wave:

there is a track day on the 27th of feb if you want to put it to the test. 1/2 day for $75. 20 or so of them you can try :P

mike mike mike...

No matter how hard you make that MX5 go, people are just going to think when you tear past them:

"Must be late for a house-call"

coming from someone who had troubles driving to his own cruise?

out of 7 potential Nissan's that entered the Circuit battle, only two competed. A Z33 and a 180sx. three gtr's backed out coz they all had engine problems (including GIANT from last year) and a couple of others too. the mx5 ran a 1:06.222 the only car that came close was a mitsubishi evo with a 1:07.432 with a race driver brought over from Asia driving it :O

until i see a faster lap time by a non-professional driver, yours are just boats with wheels and a nissan badge.

I have a mate who runs 1:10 all day on a stock R33GTST with semis it has 130kw at the wheels...Given some mods the MX5 goes down

The guy in the MX5 can obviously drive, a comparison like this is only somwhere near scientific if it is the same driver in all the cars

I am going to wakie in July Mike..come and see if you can get close to that car

Several members of this site have run as fast as that time in thier GTRs and they are just average Joes Dave ran a 1:08 on his third time at the track and vic member ran a 1:07 flat on his first time there...and he only got to drive for 2 sessions

until i see a faster lap time by a non-professional driver, yours are just boats with wheels and a nissan badge.

And as for that retarded comment come to the next NSW club offical day. So here is an idea...find FACTS (sorely lacking on this site these days) then be a smart ass hmmm?

I like how you are acting almost like you ran the time or somthing

HI 5 for the mx5 i like the widebody one i saw the pic of...hotness...oh am i supposed to be saying bad stuff about it....ok....its a factory non turbo...is that bad though...myeah it is... i would like a turbo one....widebody...fullysick 3" zhaust.. great car.

hey mike that link fails to show the fact that the mx5 has a fully built engine, wiseco pistons, carillo rods, custom oil pump and a custom sump.

it also has had an extensive brake upgrade in the way of wilwood four piston calipers, custom discs, hawk blue pads and braided brake lines.

there has been no part of that mx5 that hasnt been modified, from it body to suspension, ecu to fuel pump.

also these vechiles DNS: lotus exige, r33 gts4, subaru wrx,evo VIII rs.

also the autostyle z32 got to 1.14 seconds of that car with half the number of practice laps.

and the pro driver had never been to that track before and was there to help them setup the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...