Jump to content
SAU Community

New AFM or something more sinister?


Recommended Posts

Hey all, 

R33 gtst spec 2 / Rb25 DET Manual

Been having issues for a while where the engine randomly turns off. Could be idle, cruising, boosting or changing gear. More recently I've had issues with big boost where she suddenly shuts off fuel like it's over spooling. Running an apexi Fc so shouldnt be boost cutout, also have a greddy boost controller and psi looks normal. 

 

Any who, I've noticed that on the "stalls" the AFM shows a decimal down. When the engine is off, I get about 280mv but after the stall it'll show 28mv. It does move so not jammed or frozen. Shows on hand controller. 

Most of the time, to get going again, I have to turn the ignition completely off then back on to reset the ECU then the reading is fine again.

 

Does this sound more AFM sensor/loom or could it be an Ecu issue?

 

Thanks in advanced. 

Alan. 

Edited by Skaith4224
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/22/2023 at 10:26 AM, Skaith4224 said:

Hey all, 

R33 gtst spec 2 / Rb25 DET Manual

Been having issues for a while where the engine randomly turns off. Could be idle, cruising, boosting or changing gear. More recently I've had issues with big boost where she suddenly shuts off fuel like it's over spooling. Running an apexi Fc so shouldnt be boost cutout, also have a greddy boost controller and psi looks normal. 

 

Any who, I've noticed that on the "stalls" the AFM shows a decimal down. When the engine is off, I get about 280mv but after the stall it'll show 28mv. It does move so not jammed or frozen. Shows on hand controller. 

Most of the time, to get going again, I have to turn the ignition completely off then back on to reset the ECU then the reading is fine again.

 

Does this sound more AFM sensor/loom or could it be an Ecu issue?

 

Thanks in advanced. 

Alan. 

You can try tapping the MAF or tugging on the plug while the car is stopped and see if it reproduces. Not unusual for MAFs to have failed solder joints when old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/08/2023 at 4:29 AM, joshuaho96 said:

You can try tapping the MAF or tugging on the plug while the car is stopped and see if it reproduces. Not unusual for MAFs to have failed solder joints when old.

Thanks for the response, Was a little thrown off as the MAF voltage wouldn't go back to normal until I reset the ECU.

Was reluctant to start poking at the solder points if it wasn't the issue.

However, was driving Friday and the car completely died, no amount of ECU resets would get the voltage back so I got out and gave the MAF a slap, everything was then fine again.

So, Saturday, chopped the cap off and re-heated all the solder points. So far, I've been driving it for 3 days of varying lengths and so far so good!

The smell of petrol has gone, No hesitation under high boost and no cutouts!

 

Will keep testing and let ya'll know if any issues to occur.

 

Thanks,

Alan.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...