Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just be careful that you dont touch the glass when you install it. Most of the time the oil of your fingers causes the light to reflect back into the globe and creates extra heat to cause it to blow and

Those cheap crappy xenon globes are crappy.

If you're planning on getting the Phillips blue globes and expecting them to be blue - don't. I've got a set in my car and they put out a nice white light, and they have noticeably improved visibility, but if you want blue, then they ain't got it :) Mind you, I don't think that's a bad thing :D

  • 3 weeks later...

The reason why oil from your fingers on globes causes them to fail early is because they form a heat sink on the quartz.

In a halogen light bulb, the tungsten filament gets so hot that some of it evaporates into the halogen. Normally the evaporated metal condenses back onto the filament again because of the halogen, within a couple of milliseconds.

When you get oil on the quartz (glass would melt because these bulbs run much hotter than normal bulbs), it draws heat away from the rest of the bulb, and the metal starts to condense on this cooler spot in the bulb instead despite the halogen.

Eventually you will then the bulb will fail in the exact same way as your house light bulbs fail. There will be a weak spot in the filament because too much has condensed onto the quartz.

This is also why you don't have to worry about touching normal vacuum type bulbs. With these, either way the filament will evaporate and condense onto the glass, and it doesn't matter if it does this in one spot or evenly over the inside.

Because of the way normal filament bulbs fail, in theory it shouldn't matter if you get oil on a HID bulb because they don't work by evaporation.

For anyone looking at upgrading their bulbs, have a look at Daniel Stern's Lighting page. This site has convinced me to get some Philips Vision Plus bulbs as my next car purchase.

  • 1 year later...

Revhead: Sorry to correct you but i've got a set of Phillips 5000k temp and they put out a v light-BLUE light. !, so blue i wish they were WHITE, so i only use them as my High beam for looks only but they set me back $100.

Seriously its BLUE but it isn't as bright as the normal ugly yellow

Usually the temp determines the colour of the light, if you get 4200, 4300k temp then they are yellowish/white, if you get 5000k they are blue, if you get 7500k they get purple, i hope this helps.

My set has lasted for over a year, and my headlight is cracked and letting in water where it fogs up but it still ok.

its not worth the money and visability is poor, thats all i can say about BLUE light from NON-HID head lights =(

I rang up autobarn to check the prices of phillips light globes,

the Phillips Diamond Vision 5000k H1 i've got in my car cost $145 from AUTOBARN!

in my opinion its not worth the money because only for LOOKS but poor for visability for that price you may as well get HID's for $450-500.

Guys guys guys....listen to me

This is gonna be the best advice ur ever gonna get.

Go to Kmart or whatnot and buy the autotechnica super white/blue globes. They are cheap as, like 10 bukcs or something.

Now i know ur all gonna say but they cant be good, it's autotechnica, they are gay. Yes they may be, but i have gone through alot of money buying phillips ones, and they kept fckn blowing. So i got these ones and i tell u what, they are brighter and whiter than any of the phillips ones. And they are still goin strong, havent blown for ages.

Trust me, just get a set and see what ya think. Ur gonna sauve urself shitloads of money but also get better light

I bought a set of osram silverstar globes. They arnt super white or anything, but they definately work much better than the normal halogens. You can definately see a bit further and tell that its brighter. Best thing is, it only cost me 40 bucks. May not have much bling factor, but when driving along with no streetlamps, you really come to appreciate them.

another thing to check is the voltage of your electrics while the car is running, esp. under a bit of load, if your alternator has a dodgy regulator the voltage could be spiking too high and that can kill bulbs.

Get a mutli-meter accross the ciggy lighter socket and take it for a burn, with a passenger keeping an eye on the reading, if you have fancy data-logging one you can do it by yourself. Just don't come back saying you crashed your car while looking at the meter rather than the road! :D

just a follow up about the phillips range of globes

like revhead and crooser say, the vision plus/blue vision, emit a white light, even tho the lens is slightly blue. they are probly equiv to a hella cool blue, altho slightly clearer.

i have crystal vision in mine (4300k colour temp def not a yellow/white light as gtshortie mentions, they are very white) and they work a treat, i think a good compromise between white and blue, altho not strictly legal.

also as gtshortie mentions, many ppl are disappointed with the diamond visions @ 5000k temp, they are blue enough to limit brightness and will attract some unwanted police attention.

as an auto electrician i replace the odd globe and recommend phillips, even the standard phillips, altho if u buying crystal or diamonds try and do some haggling, there is a substantial difference between retail and trade prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...