Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

*** I had this posted in cosmetic and styling mods but no one really reads much in there...

Im putting my GTR badge on my boot and im hoping someone can help me out as to where EXACTLY to place it.

I really want it to be in the original spot!

If possible can someone with their original GTR badge fitted give me measurements A and B in the pic shown....

All help appreciated!

Mat.

....and yeah its a real GTR....not a gtst :)

post-17897-1171350518.jpg

Hey all,

*** I had this posted in cosmetic and styling mods but no one really reads much in there...so i put it in here too! as im hoping some gtrs may use forced induction..... :O

Im putting my GTR badge on my boot and im hoping someone can help me out as to where EXACTLY to place it.

I really want it to be in the original spot!

If possible can someone with their original GTR badge fitted give me measurements A and B in the pic shown....

All help appreciated!

Mat.

....and yeah its a real GTR....not a gtst :)

post-17897-1171350518.jpg

On mine:

A = 16mm

B = 11mm

Interesting and i thought my car was stock dam it i may have to buy a new one to move it back to stock. Did you measure both Cars GTRsean dam it o well looks 16,14 it is.

Well im thinking 14 and 16 is really close to the edge...maybe too close, i was thinking that 40 odd would have been about right....

Who still has the original paintwork and therefore a badge in the original position??

Well i just found the dimensions i wrote down before i did my respray...i thought i had lost them!

So im assuming that i had the original paintjob with the badge in the original place....

Anyways:

A = 45mm

B = 35mm

I stuck it there and it looks fine!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...