Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Hunting after start-up !!!!


Recommended Posts

Guest Works Auto

Had this problem for 3weeks now and going insane.

Start car up and it revs to 2000rpm then when its meant to drop back to about 1000rpm it drops to like 300rpm and almost stalls. Then it proceeds to hunt for a while before it settles at around 1000rpm.

Now i think ive changed possibly every sensor in the car but still no luck. I even put a new inlet manifold gasket on.

one thing i noticed is that it seemed to happen after i put the gtr injectors and z32 afm in.

Another thing to note is that i have no crankcase pressure . The revs arnt dropping if i take the oil cap off like it used to.

Someone save me and shed some light on this as im going insane to the max. gonna kick panels in shortly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15647-engine-hunting-after-start-up/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a classic case of the ECU saying "WTF is happening to the mixtures??". What's probably happening is that it's using the fuel maps in the ECU, and when the oxygen sensor starts returning some absurdly rich numbers, starts winding back the mixtures until it idles. Stupid question, but you DID retune the car after making the changes? :D

If the AFM and injectors have been changed and the tuning remains as it was before the changes, then the maps in the ECU will be basically useless. The fuel will be too lean and, at best, the AFM readings will be out all over the rev/load range. At worst, the new AFM will have a completely different response curve (if that's a term you can use to refer to an AFM :) ).

If I'm completely off the mark and you HAVE had it retuned, I'd be taking it back and having them tune it again.

Another option is a leak in the intake piping, sucking bucketloads of unmetered air into the engine and thereby making the mixtures much more lean than the computer thinks they should be. A bad thing all round, and could cause the problems you describe. How does it run on the move?

I just had the same problem in my R31.. but it would stall at the lights when it warmed up! REALLY was pissing me off... found out it was the AFM. Thought it was the crank angle sensor though.. amongst other things... a COMMO :) owner told me he'd bet it'd be that... so i took his advice and changed it, and saved alot of cash from gettin a new dizzy and/or ECU... phew.

I have something similar with my car. start it up - idling revs are fine. Then after the engine is warm when it idles it will start dropping from 750 to about 400 - 550 and it starts shuddering and spluttering bounces the revs up a little then they drop again. :D its really annoying me. Its a fairly stock auto.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I don't believe the M35 uses a deadhead system.
    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
×
×
  • Create New...