Internal Troubles :\

[aphid]

Hey,

Cut the story short.. Managed to spill coolant inside the engine (removed RB25 intake manifold without draining coolant.. was feeling lazy).. anyway, got most of the water out via lift pump and figured i'd let the engine burn off the rest (it was nowhere near enough to cause hydrolic lock).. so i go to fire it up and now i'm getting a horrid soft squealing sound (metal on metal).. pulled the plugs again and had a look in just then and there's moisture drops inside the engine, my question is this was nowhere near long enough to cause rust inside the bore, so should it be right to idle straight? i'm thinking the sound is the rings on the cylinder walls where the water has pushed away the oil, in which case letting the engine warm for a bit should cause the rest of the water to vaporise and problem be gone... argh, help

[Ryanrb25]

hmmm, if you removed the inlet manifold are you sure its not a slight leak around that general area?

i ran an rb30 for a few years with a blown head gasket and that used to CHEW through coolant like a mofo. ran fine the day i took it out. so im pretty sure the coolant wont cause a problem. Also, correct me if im wrong but coolant is an anti-corrosive mixture which should actually prevent rust so that shouldn't be a problem.

ALSO, check to see if you can pinpoint where its actually coming from because i had a simular noise coming from the timing belt cover and there was a leak (rb30 but same thing) around the water pump and was making the belt make wierd noises. so maybe some coolant went in there.... im just throwing ideas!

im no expert however!

Edited February 15, 2007 by Ryanrb25

[aphid]

cheers for the idea's mate, but i'm pretty sure it's internal :S some other things too note - the engine was leaking oil from around the stock oil cooler, hence pulling the intake manifold off to get it out.. anyway i also pulled out the oil pressure sensor from it and resealed the threads on it as it's a common leakage point and replaced the gasket on the actual oil cooler itself.. i also sealed the threads where i've got the oil line tapped for my vct (standard rb30 oil pressure sender spot, running an rb30det) the same way.. also noticed that when i shut the engine off (straight away almost) oil pressure SLOWLY decreased over about a space of 15 seconds, from memory it's usually gone alot faster than that.. i was thinking perhaps somewhere there is a blockage in the oil system that is preventing oil from circulating and building up pressure, perhaps i've screwed the vct oil feed in a bit to far.. oh well, tomorrow is another day, i'll test out your idea by taking off the water pump belt (run off batteries for the 4 or so seconds i have it on )

Edited February 15, 2007 by aphid

[Ryanrb25]

wait, when you replaced the gasket on the stock oil cooler, did you use any gasket goop? and , does the gasket go on more than two ways? would it be possible to put it in the wrong way? there's something sus about that pressure still there.

edit: looking at the picture doesn't look like you can f**k up puting the gasket on wrong...looks more 'only one way' style.

[Guilt-Toy]

air leak from intake can give you a high pitched squeel. put your ear right near the manifold and listen. the engine should be ok

[aphid]

noise turned out to be the timing cover case rubbing against the head with vibrations.. really sounded bad though <insert embarresed face here>

[Ryanrb25]

i was also going to mention that but it sounded more complex than that hehehe...

good to hear its all good.