Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you will need to trim the snorkel a bit for it to fit.

as for cutting the reo.. you can always sit the front mount further back but you probably wouldnt be using any 'off the shelf' piping kits as most are designed for the front mount to bolt up to the reo bar.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to hijack the thread but does anybody have any pics of where their intercooler pipe comes through on the drivers side and over the top of the fan blades or wherever it goes???

Anyone that has installed these lately can you please let me know about the Inlet pipe to the intercooler. It is longer on one side than the other by about 3-5cm.

Does the longer piece connect to the old pipe coming through the hole in the chassis or does it connect to the intercooler inlet?

It seems that either would way might work..

You can cut them after the piping is fitted and the fan still on. Its probably better to do so, so you can check how much needs to be lopped off and check the clearance. As for cutting, we used a pneumatic die grinder with the cutting disc attachment. Or alternatively you could use some tin snips.

We spun the blade around and held a marker in one spot to evenly mark the blades.

Edited by KeyMakeR33
Sorry to hijack the thread but does anybody have any pics of where their intercooler pipe comes through on the drivers side and over the top of the fan blades or wherever it goes???

I gave you photo's of where the hole goes in you other thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20&start=20

Does anyone Know where to get a smaller type intercooler. I mean thinner like 50mm or something. That might suit this guys application better. I am trying to do the same thing too, i might go for a thinner cooler and try get something that has both outlets on the same side so that I can connect it back up to the factory piping.

Anyone know of places that sell thinner coolers and ones that have outlets on the same side.

Also i am not chasing any big HP figures so i think a thinner cooler might just do me nicely.

Does anyone Know where to get a smaller type intercooler. I mean thinner like 50mm or something. That might suit this guys application better. I am trying to do the same thing too, i might go for a thinner cooler and try get something that has both outlets on the same side so that I can connect it back up to the factory piping.

Anyone know of places that sell thinner coolers and ones that have outlets on the same side.

Also i am not chasing any big HP figures so i think a thinner cooler might just do me nicely.

Just jap have a cooler that has outlets on the same side. I don't think its any thinner though and you would have to get some piping made for you.

I gave you photo's of where the hole goes in you other thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20&start=20

Oh yeah i know but i mean does anybody have any pics with the pipes in place??

Cheers.

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...