Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not saving 20 a week on fuel, costs 20 dollars to fill the tank up. So saving 50 a week on fuel. Probably a whole lot more depends how much driving I do.

And fair enough, i know the arguments, maybe ill buy a V8 instead, still tossing up what to do.

How the hell is running 91 fuel going to cause any damage if the car is tuned for it? the only thing running 91 fuel will do if its tuned right is a loss of power, thats it.

I was just trying to find out how capable the skyline computer system is in pulling out enough timing to make running 91 safe before a custom comp could be installed to set it up right.

Id love to know how running 91 ron with the right tuning could do damage?

Edited by ascenion24
assumption on my behalf, guess 100ron is standard then

lol! it's the other way. japan is not a magic land with gold plated pumps! Yes they have nice fuel available, but it's not cheap, and it's not 'standard'. it would be crazy to be driving around tokyo in your toyota hi-ace on 100RON $2.50 a litre fuel! They don't use quite the same rating system, but as best I can recall regular unleaded is about 93 or 94 RON. most 'performance' models run fine on that, but some are more suited to japanese premium of either around 98, or 100RON. but any standard skyline will (should) run fine on 95RON premium. Don't forget these cars were made (mostly) in the early 90s, fuel quality and availibilty was not quite the same as it is now.

its not so much a loss of power with 91 RON ... more of cant make (high) power safely (that word again...detonation)

and...wait...your saying to FILL your skyline tank with 91 RON (regular unleaded) its $20?? so based on the assumption r33 tank is approx 50L ... your saying that fuel where you live is 40c/L

98RON is at very most 20c/L more than 91RON so based on 100L (whih skylines dont have!!) its only a saving of $20

RellikZephyr

Here the dif between 98 and 91 bp fuel is only 10.5 c per L difference hell just shop a docket your fuel get 4c or more off thats the easiest way to COMBAT fuel prices if one is so concerned

Inside the filler cap on my 32gtst it says minimum 95RON, what that is equivalent to here I don't know.

95RON = premium unleaded in most states. that sticker is most likely placed there during compliance by the aussie workshop.

yes thats right, i can get 91 petrol for under 40 cents a litre. from a familys workplace through his business, but im not suppose to get it but its family so he lets me.

Now can everyone keep on topic.

Obviously it says 95 ron minimum because anything less and it will start to ping/detonate whatever you want to call it. This is because of the timing the standerd computer uses.

But if tuned to run on 91 then it wont detonate, so how could it cause damage? fi you dont know anything about this then can you please stay out because this thread is just starting to get crowded with bullshit now.

well ok if specifically tune it to the 91RON then yes you shouldnt come by any problems... although when "spirited" driving you will still run a higher risk of detonation...and with detonation comes great detruction

also...you say with the money you save by gettin this cheap fuel you will mod your car...fair plan...but once modded you wont be able to take advantage of the mods because of the 91RON fuel i.e cant run high amounts of boost cause the fuel just isnt good enough

infact pretty much any performance mod you might chuck on would be a waste of that saved money

new computer...still has to be detuned to utilise 91RON

new turbos...can run high boost fuel wont cope

bigger injector and fuel pump...still pumpin 91RON so...detuned to suit

all the above with 91RON would give little to no power increase

might work well to save to buy suspension,clutch,zorst,bodykit etc...

but performance mods like above just wont increase performance

RellikZephyr

Since you have not supplied any information on what mods you have, what mods you intend ot have, what tuning you have and what your usage patterns are it is impossible to answer this question properly.

Some things for you to think about;

A 91 ron tune on a Skyline is not very common, you may well be the first person that you tuner will have ever done it for. So it might cost you $5-600 to get it tuned for 91 ron as well as the $5-600 for a 98 ron tune. That cos tduplication re=occurs every time you do an upgrade and need a tune

If you want to swap between fuel, you will need to keep both sets of maps available for uploading. That means laptop tuning software (eg; Datalogit for Power FC's) and a laptop itself, of course.

Talking about 20 rwkw loss is excessively simplistic, think about HALF AS MUCH POWER at 3,000 rpm as being more indicative.

If you are thinking that the standard computer will save your ass, then you are right as far as that goes. But the knock driven rich and retard will KILL the performance and KILL the fuel economy. Much much more than a tune for 91 ron will.

So, fill in the information gaps and we can go from there.

:D cheers :D

man just add some vegetable oil should be sweet makes your car pinge less and raises octane ahahahha

ahh well i've always tried using shit tight methods of 91 ron, yes it saves you money, some reason bp 91 ron fuel was better then the rest and through my experience of the ecu shitting itself after a month it was just crap and so many headaches and just MORE PROBLEMS!!!. :P

So i decided to run her only with BP ULTIMATE.

YES I CATCH THE TRAIN SO MY BABY GETS BP ULTIMATE i dun care if it says 95 ron as standard but based on past experiences, its always better to be safe then sorry p.s bp ultimate has less pollution too :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...