Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I really want to get my hands even more dirty around this time with this car. So im going to try (attempt) to do as many things myself as possible.

However a few things i am still a little scared on taking on as a solo venture.

I think the first upgrade ( apart from a pod) will be the FMIC.

What i was wondering is if there is someone i can borrow to assist me with this. i have some tools but no hoist..

I can bring the kit + a carton of <insert alcohol> here or whatever will make you happy to help me fit the beast.

Be aware you will be put up on the forums with pics step by step etc.

Also if someone knows of a FMIC that fits without too much chopping ( and preferably keeping my front spolier) that would be dandy!

thanks in advance :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/
Share on other sites

half of topic. but anyway

whats with the whole conception that you need a hoist for everything??

yeh i know there alot easier to work on. but really just get a set of jackstands and a creeper...

the fmic should be relatively easy to install on your own, however iunderstand your want for someone to guide you. Im too far away however i will give you this advice.

measure atleast twice if not three timmes before you cut anything

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2921999
Share on other sites

half of topic. but anyway

whats with the whole conception that you need a hoist for everything??

yeh i know there alot easier to work on. but really just get a set of jackstands and a creeper...

the fmic should be relatively easy to install on your own, however iunderstand your want for someone to guide you. Im too far away however i will give you this advice.

measure atleast twice if not three timmes before you cut anything

Yah i kinda didnt mean hoist.. just at least a decent jack or 2 ( as i dont think the skyline came with one as it was on holidays when it was shipped over)

Since i have not had to do a lot of engine work i have not invested in a decent jack yet.

Thanks for the advice.. but yah want someone to hold my hand while i do it ( not literally) just help with bolting it on and explain why we are doing it a certain way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2922029
Share on other sites

but for half the price a just jap kit will fit with the aid of angle grinder a disc, tin snips, and hole saw... best value for money in my opinion.

Yeah let's see you justjap kit provide me with 26 degree inlet temps when ambient is 30 and I'm running 22psi boost.

PWR are unrivaled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2923938
Share on other sites

You need to look at your overall goal and the application of the cooler for the future. If you don't really need one atm you may as well stay with your stock cooler and not bother with all the effort. In essence all your doing is making the air travel further by installing a front mount when your running stock boost, waste of time and money imo. Running pipes over your fan through engine heat is just a general no, no, why cool it down only to heat it up again. Do it right the first time or save the money until you can afford to is my 2c.

Note the above logic doesn't apply if your simply after the "cool" front mount look.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2923970
Share on other sites

he was talking bout the PWR core dropping the inlet temp to 26 when outside temp is 30 he was saying how good the PWR core is. but that kit prob cost 700+ but u get what u pay for in the end. and the just jap kit is an upgrade from the crappy SMIC...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2924015
Share on other sites

he was talking bout the PWR core dropping the inlet temp to 26 when outside temp is 30 he was saying how good the PWR core is. but that kit prob cost 700+ but u get what u pay for in the end. and the just jap kit is an upgrade from the crappy SMIC...

lol yea I realised, i got sidetracked halfway through my post and mixed it up....like you say...you do get what you pay for. I have nothing against the justjap kits, i just think your always better off saving and getting better quality that can produce the results if your looking at keeping the car for a while..but hey its his money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2924045
Share on other sites

lol yea I realised, i got sidetracked halfway through my post and mixed it up....like you say...you do get what you pay for. I have nothing against the justjap kits, i just think your always better off saving and getting better quality that can produce the results if your looking at keeping the car for a while..but hey its his money.

Well its all about me in question..

i was going to get the just jap one... should i save up and get a 2000 dollar jobbie?

This was also going to be the first mod for the car.......do the exhuast first instead? (stock engine)

Hmm..perhaps then a new battle plan is in order?

Pod // exhaust // fmic // Boost controller // Chip ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2924411
Share on other sites

the Blitz Lm cooler and the ARC cooler fit easily..the use the stock holes...no cutting required

We thought that to... But we had to cut a fair bit. Ser 2 33... But we didnt have to drill any holes at all. Blitz LM Cooler Kit

Edited by 95SKY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2924418
Share on other sites

the cross over pipe on the jusjap and hybrid style gets so hot.

I figure if the air is on my cooler long enough to cool it down then it must be in the hot pipe long enough to tranfer some heat to it.

Go the PWR or blitz style to keep ur stock pipes.

How about the type - m trust intercooler kits? same as the justjap ones?

Also where can i get these PWR intercoolers? the blitz ones are pretty hexxy..for that price i will do the exhaust first.. is pwr about the same price range or more?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2929003
Share on other sites

just jap..

lose the return cool pipe get a Greddy knock off manifold and hook that up.. more response than a Blitz LM and shorter pipping at around half price all up.. u can always water spray it.. wtih the blitz u still got the cross over pipe it just goes over the turbo not the rad fan... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157350-favour-to-ask/#findComment-2929218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...