Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i have had this ticking noise, not a knock or a tap, a tick, like as if you were listning to an old grandfather clock, except faster.

The car has done 80K, and has always been serviced even in japan, i got all books and so forht. The engine has good compretion 150psi across all cylinders. Engine makes great power over 200 rwks, and is always warmed up and cooled down.

It does not blow any smoke or use oil or watter.

Now i know the tappet tap, i can hear those, the injectors are noisy, common issues, no probs there.

But this sound can only be heard under the car, on teh turbo side, and possibly towards the rear, hard to tell. it's a faint tick. You can only hear it under the car, and if you are driving slow in a carpark. I do not know if it gets lowder when you go faster, cos it is faint.

I think the sound is the same on cold or hot starts, i think. I have tried to listen with ahose to see if i can pinpoint the noise but no good.

Now i have did find two louse studs on the manifold did these up. so far i have not found any other. The manifold sustds are all there.

The clutch throw out bearing has been replaced, and sounds fine.

No i don't know what this can be, as it can ONLY be heard under the car.

Can someone with a simmilar problem give me some ideas ????????????

What are teh signs of a big end about to spin?????

HELP I am going to go insane i am to anal about cars. LOL

Ok so i have had this ticking noise, not a knock or a tap, a tick, like as if you were listning to an old grandfather clock, except faster.

The car has done 80K, and has always been serviced even in japan, i got all books and so forht. The engine has good compretion 150psi across all cylinders. Engine makes great power over 200 rwks, and is always warmed up and cooled down.

It does not blow any smoke or use oil or watter.

Now i know the tappet tap, i can hear those, the injectors are noisy, common issues, no probs there.

But this sound can only be heard under the car, on teh turbo side, and possibly towards the rear, hard to tell. it's a faint tick. You can only hear it under the car, and if you are driving slow in a carpark. I do not know if it gets lowder when you go faster, cos it is faint.

I think the sound is the same on cold or hot starts, i think. I have tried to listen with ahose to see if i can pinpoint the noise but no good.

Now i have did find two louse studs on the manifold did these up. so far i have not found any other. The manifold sustds are all there.

The clutch throw out bearing has been replaced, and sounds fine.

No i don't know what this can be, as it can ONLY be heard under the car.

Can someone with a simmilar problem give me some ideas ????????????

What are teh signs of a big end about to spin?????

HELP I am going to go insane i am to anal about cars. LOL

Yea i've got the same problem... would be good to know wtf is it...

exhaust gasket is farket or turbo gasket is gone i had same problem on a ca18det ticked and went like a dog fixed the turbo gasket and gone like that just a thaught

cause if two studs were loose its probably damage

the gasket

yep, just the gasket as above.

Nothing major, and pretty common issue.

Make sure you replace it, and ALL of the manifold studs/turbo gaskets at the same time so it doesnt happen all again

but the tubo pulls great, boost like there is no tommorow, i wish i could recod it.

I am going to go over all the agskets to have a look.

so does teh gasket cause a fain tick, tick tick????

well i went over the car, and well no ticking when cold, only when hot. Went over all the bolts, all tight. I think it's the manifold, as when you close the bonnet, its a bit louder.

Dam it.

yepp taht trick is the one i used, my dad told me how to use it properly, works dam well too.

I have checked the oil pressure, all fine good oil pressure, new oil, and the ticking noise can't be heard anywhere on the engine, not bearings, not block no idea. so i think its must be my exhaust.

ohh well wait till it shit me too much.

Edited by WogsRus

My internal wastegate made a similar noise when I got a hi-flowed turbo. So I just bought a tensioner and welded it to the actuator rod to put more tension on it, worked fine and adjusts boost (like the hks items). Probably not this as you haven't changed your turbo but something to check none the less.

I'll tell you now I had that same noise. I recently got my GT3076R turbo on my car and in the process they changed manifold bolts (heads broke off and screws stuck in thread), manifold gasket (that was completely f**ked to high heaven) turbo and a few exhaust gaskets and the ticking noise was no longer an issue.

Thanks guys, yeah i am sure it's an exhaust, i found some black burn marks arround, evidence of exhaust leaks.

I wish i got my warranty now. LOL. Oh well, looks lika a weekend job.

Gettign some pricing today, but where is the best place to get manifold gasket from. nissan is about $100 i think.

It'll be a few hundred very quickly

* All manifold studs changed out

* Manifold gasket

* Turbo & Dump gaskets

Also note, your more than likely going to snap a stud or two. Its just the nature of the beast.

Use LOTS of WD40 or similar a few hours before you start if DIY from home.

If your paying a workshop do to it, its going to be close to a 600-800 advanture i reckon by the time its all done.

are the other ones shit or something?

I have heard that Sparco have good ones.

How do i tell if it is a good one? Anyone have had bad experiance with non genuine ones or something?

Thanks R31nizmo, but i'll be doing all the work myself, this is a piss of piss compared to some of the jobs. Allthough i am only a mechanical engineer, having worked on car's since i was 9 and dad did rallying in Europe, this is nothign new.

Well new in the sence that it is a Skyline, and haven't delt in turbos before, it's a bit more complicated, hence the barage of questions.

I have the manual and all the tools, so i figured i can't stuff it up to much. LOL. here's hoping anyway.

So far costs are

Exhayst gasket manifold = $100

turbo to manifold = $ 15

turbo to dump = $23

Stud kit and new nuts and washers = $38

Also will replace copper gaskets on teh turbo, but have not got price as yet.

Total = $176

Hideen charges

Beer = $30

Bandaids = $5

Trip to doctor for scuffed knuckels = $30

Knowing you did it yourself = pricless.

LOL

thanks guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...