Jump to content
SAU Community

What Suspension Setup, Body Parts N Exhaust Do You Use On Your Car ?

Halo a

By Halo a,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
HSD HR is OK for street, seems to work well for drift, not sure about circuit. But you can get much much better than HSD, they are a cheap coilover aimed at a price bracket, so they will skimp on things to meet this bracket. Same with all cheap coilovers/shocks.

so which cheapie coilovers do u recommend ?

Thnaks

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so is ur car on the road yet ? tell us wat did u done 2 ur engine n wat is the power u making it ?

Thanks

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
so which cheapie coilovers do u recommend ?

Thnaks

Just dont do it man hey. The bilstein stuff isnt THAT much more, and it will work better, last longer and therefore cost you less in the long run.

Trust me I've been there done that, spent almost $2k on coilover rebuilds, different springs etc etc. If you can do it once properly do it.

BTW, you can get the bilsteins kind of like a coilover. You get the coilover things that go around the shock, then just get the springs to suit. But it would probably cost more than its worth.

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't recommend any of the cheap coilovers. My experience with HSD wasn't good, but everyone else seems to have good luck with them. When I had them in my car, I hated them.

Each to their own.

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

had f*kd TEIN, HSD and ISC in my ceffy - HSD were good until i had ISC - noticed even with stiffer spring rate the ISC were much more forgiving with driving on the street - they just seemed to be more adjustable for street, but then work when they needed to on the track.

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
had f*kd TEIN, HSD and ISC in my ceffy - HSD were good until i had ISC - noticed even with stiffer spring rate the ISC were much more forgiving with driving on the street - they just seemed to be more adjustable for street, but then work when they needed to on the track.

i havent heard of ISC before. can u tell me which country make them. Also which type of TEIN coilovers did u use ? Thanks

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just dont do it man hey. The bilstein stuff isnt THAT much more, and it will work better, last longer and therefore cost you less in the long run.

Trust me I've been there done that, spent almost $2k on coilover rebuilds, different springs etc etc. If you can do it once properly do it.

BTW, you can get the bilsteins kind of like a coilover. You get the coilover things that go around the shock, then just get the springs to suit. But it would probably cost more than its worth.

Wat do u think if i get brand new TEIN HA , Cusco, or JIC coilovers ? That shouldnt be a drama right ?

mike_a31 Contributor

mike_a31

Posted
Posted

i got Tein HR's in my ceffy and they r bumpy and knockin like hell. Keep the car nice and flat in the corners and when driftin but soon as i hit a bump u can feel the car jump and the wheel chirps as its skips in the air. Soon as i have the cash i will b changing them, unsure to what yet.

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i got Tein HR's in my ceffy and they r bumpy and knockin like hell. Keep the car nice and flat in the corners and when driftin but soon as i hit a bump u can feel the car jump and the wheel chirps as its skips in the air. Soon as i have the cash i will b changing them, unsure to what yet.

If is bumping too much on the street it is bad for the car? my answer will be yes. How about if u changing to the softest on the street ? Are they still keep u riding like a horse ?

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

4DoorWhore: HSDs look like this

http://www.hsdcoilovers.com/range.html

Most people in aus are running the HRs. They are cheap and seem to work well for the drifters.

Halo_a: They dont make Tein HAs anymore. And most (if not all) of the Jap shocks are arguably inferior to European shocks. But if it makes you happier, get the cheapest nastiest set of coilovers you can find. After all, the more expensive stuff isn't like that for a reason is it?

slo-a31 Contributor

slo-a31

Posted
Posted
so is ur car on the road yet ? tell us wat did u done 2 ur engine n wat is the power u making it ?

Thanks

not on the road yet had a few dramas building engine next time i'm home then got g/b and diff to finnish then its on the road again

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Wat do u think if i get brand new TEIN HA , Cusco, or JIC coilovers ? That shouldnt be a drama right ?

I personally would find the extra $200/300 or whatever it is and get the bilsteins. But thats my oppinion.

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)

For the sort of money those coilovers are worth brand new, you can get the Bilsteins made into coilovers. $2262 they cost me and use your own factory strut tops. If you've got a set of coilover tops around (suit rectangular coil) then you can take another $100 off the price. This includes custom spring rates (Eibachs, best springs in the world) AND revalved to suit.

I see some sponsors doin Tein flex for $2050 and Tein monoflex for $2450

For the normal strut and spring combination it comes to $1436 for the set delivered.

EDIT: of Bilsteins ^^^

Edited by salad
Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
For the sort of money those coilovers are worth brand new, you can get the Bilsteins made into coilovers. $2262 they cost me and use your own factory strut tops. If you've got a set of coilover tops around (suit rectangular coil) then you can take another $100 off the price. This includes custom spring rates (Eibachs, best springs in the world) AND revalved to suit.

I see some sponsors doin Tein flex for $2050 and Tein monoflex for $2450

For the normal strut and spring combination it comes to $1436 for the set delivered.

Wat i knw is TEIN doesnt make in Japan anyone more they make in Taiwan. If so i might get bilsteins or ohlins coilovers. wat the the average price on them ? IS there any manufacturer in Australia ?

Thanks

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

The cheap Teins are made elsewhere, but the more expensive ones are still made in Japan, which ones though, I dont know.

Bilstiens and Ohlins aren't exactly cheap, your best bet would be the groupbuy that SK is running. Prices for R32 are quoted above. Ohlins are damn expensive and I somehow doubt you could afford them if you were considering HSD.

Bilsteins are all made in Germany. I'm fairly sure all the Ohlins are made in Sweeden, but I'm not certain.

Halo a Community Regular

Halo a

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The cheap Teins are made elsewhere, but the more expensive ones are still made in Japan, which ones though, I dont know.

Bilstiens and Ohlins aren't exactly cheap, your best bet would be the groupbuy that SK is running. Prices for R32 are quoted above. Ohlins are damn expensive and I somehow doubt you could afford them if you were considering HSD.

Bilsteins are all made in Germany. I'm fairly sure all the Ohlins are made in Sweeden, but I'm not certain.

Have u been on track with the Bilsteins coilovers ? Are they good for drift ?

If i get the bilsteins coilovers wat else do i have change the foot work area ?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...