Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I got a really good job offer in Newcastle yesterday and am seriously considering it, although i have a couple of questions that i would like to ask before I say yes.

1. I have been looking at properties at Raymond Terrace, is there any particular areas that i should stay away from?

2. I will be managing 2 locations at the airport and in central area, what is the commute like between these areas?

3. Is there any reputable workshops in the area?

4. What kind of Motorsport events are on in the local area, if any??

Thanks for replies in advance,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157510-job-offer-may-be-moving/
Share on other sites

Hey Ben,

Theres a "newcastle thread" up in the stickied section - could try posting in there?

Events wise - there are quite a few show and shines around, nearest tracks would be sydney, although not too sure if they still have the 18th mile there.

RT? umm....I'll let the locals answer that, I've heard a mixed bag!

The commuting between the two - say 30mins not even on a good run?

Have to drive though, or bus it.

workshops, I think RX Enginerring is up that way, Iveheard good stuff bout them.

Anyhoo, Im sure some of the newie locals will reply with more detail :)

Newcastle is the goods. :kiss:

If you will be working out near teh airport then the Raymond Terrace house should be good, that being said I enjoy living in Newcastle city.

Few good tuning shops around so there is no problems there!

We have cruises every now and then when we can be bothered to organise one :)

If you will be working out near teh airport then the Raymond Terrace house should be good, that being said I enjoy living in Newcastle city.

yeah ill be managing a office at the airport and one on hannell st, but my office will be at hannell st, so maybe something in that general area.

Raymond terrace!! dear god there Maccas got burnt down yesterday.. This place sucks hard if god was going to give the world a Enima Raymond Terrace is where he would insert the tube....

well i think raymond terrace is out unless a bring my dog with me.

NO NO NO NO!

You can't move or i'll cry

its alright anna, youll just have to visit me when you and andy go to sydney, just to get your pink hit.

Hey mate

Raymond terrace can have some bad area's.. if you move around the lakeside area (near the dam) that area is good. also on the other side of the dam (riverview ridge / roslyn estate area) is probly the best part of Raymond Terrace (i lived there for over 15 years)

Stay away from the housing commission area's.. you will know them when you look at the place..

PM me and i can give you my phone number if you want to ask any questions.

Turbotechnics in Cardiff is the go for tuning

We dont have any motorsport except for the MG car club which holds events every month and the hill climb at newcastle every year but its just a 1 hour and 20 minute drive from raymond terrace to the end of the freeway taking it easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...