Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate i honestly thought theyre ricey, until my mate got it with his tein super streets, it makes set up so much easier.. p.s his car is a daily and you can save 3 diff settings

personaly i now believe its worth it.

dead32

Thanks for the tip.. I'm thinking of getting Tein Super Streets my self, from what I hear they are a confortable ride, not as bouncy/rough as other coil overs out in the market and they also come with a decent price tag.

I'll take your word for it and will be ordering this controller along with the coilovers

mate i honestly thought theyre ricey, until my mate got it with his tein super streets, it makes set up so much easier.. p.s his car is a daily and you can save 3 diff settings

personaly i now believe its worth it.

Couldnt agree more!!!

Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. High quality dampers (Eg: Bilsteins) have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting.

:( cheers :laugh:

Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. High quality dampers (Eg: Bilsteins) have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting.

:( cheers :wave:

If a shockabsorber is that "great" and fine tuned, how can they cover such a wide range of work?

Yes i agree that bilstein are a very very good shock absorber. No arguement there. However, i feel maybe you should stop dismissing every other as "unsophisticated" and ultimately crap/useless.

The valve range on the Teins will work with the spring rates. Most kits can go up or down a rate and still be fine for most of the adjustment. E.g, if you went up a spring rate, you would find that the lower adjustment range would not give a great result, and down a rate the higher range of adjustments would not be great. Of course this all depends on other factors to, like bushes, swaybar thickness and settings (if adjustable), tyres (Road, semi-slick, slick). I run Tein Super streets in my car and race in several events (motorkhanas, hill climbs, events with tight twisty stuff where cornering and grip is worth more than brute power). My engine is stock, not big hp. My car is extremely competitive an often leads the class of other skylines and a range of other vehicles with big hp and suspension set ups like bilstein, Koni, or the jap stuff like HKS etc.

Just my thoughts based on my experience.

Not essential, but they are quite useful.

Unfortunately there's no way I can get access to the rear strut tops in my Z33 without drilling holes in the trim and rear strut brace; that's something I'm not prepared to do.

That lack of access meant that I had to get an aftermarket coilover kit that offered an in-cabin adjuster.

Mind you, Bilstein is about to offer an in cabin damper controller for their coilovers so perhaps you could wait, and then get suspension SK approves of that's also adjustable :(

If I drove a car where I could get access to the strut tops from the boot or by unclipping some trim that I can later re-clip then I wouldn't bother with a controller.

Not essential, but they are quite useful.

Mind you, Bilstein is about to offer an in cabin damper controller for their coilovers so perhaps you could wait, and then get suspension SK approves of that's also adjustable :(

HA HA yes i am sure he will approve of Adjustable suspension when it is available in Bilstein brand that he sells lol

Bilstein's Ride COntrol Cockpit Adjustable Coil-Over Kit

Not sure if they make the system available for any other cars (for example, Tanabe's ultra-funky speed sensitive TEAS is only available for the Sustec Pro SEVEN. And since that was developed in the USA and not Japan, its only available on cars available in the US.

If this thing didn't cost around AUD$1500 more than Tein Flex, I would have gotten it just for the gadgetness that is speed sensitive damper controlling. :(

Edited by scathing
Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. High quality dampers (Eg: Bilsteins) have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting.

:) cheers :)

How do you explain the Bilstein PSS9? These allow for damper ajustment and are considered to be one of the best in the market (valued at $4000). So are these lacking in sophistication?

:laugh:

How do you explain the Bilstein PSS9? These allow for damper ajustment and are considered to be one of the best in the market (valued at $4000). So are these lacking in sophistication?

:laugh:

HA HA HA yeah, they must be!!!

Let's put the quotes in the right context;

1. "Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments." How many people know which way to adjust the damping to increase the grip? Most just simply go for the “harder is best” at both ends. You experienced guys know that is most times NOT the case. Increasing the damping may in fact result in LESS grip. If I have an understeering condition do I increase the damping on the front? Or decrease it? What about the rear, increase or decrease? By how much? Without experience, not at all easy questions to answer.

Further complicating matters is the fact that damping adjustment is not a simple light switch operation. There are graduations and the effects of those graduations are on both front and rear and overall balance. So in a simple 12 step shock adjustment, front and rear, you can have 144 different settings. Which one is correct? For that day, on that track?

Painful experience tells me that you can spend many many hours testing damper settings, trying to find the ideal set up. The average guy on SAU isn’t going to have that sort of time or expertise. So they would be much better off with a shock that doesn’t need that sort of fine tuning. Spend the time learning the track and improving their driving skills. There is more likely faster lap times in doing that, than endless fiddling with shock adjustments. When they get a bit more experienced then try a simple 3 step stabiliser bar adjustment.

2. “Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving”. Note the use of the word MOST, that doesn’t mean ALWAYS. There are some shocks whose adjustment is a worthwhile addition. I regularly mention them in my posts, for example Ohlins (the Swedish ones), Sach, Proflex, DMS, Penske, Dynamic and Bilstein. Their cost will mostly likely exceed most of the budgets on SAU, so whilst they are aspirational, the reality is very very few will achieve that level of need.

Regardless of their budget, I still wouldn’t recommend even those brands to inexperienced guys.

3. The Bilstein B16 Ride Control kit is a re-active (self adjusting) kit and I certainly wouldn’t be recommending it for track use. Constantly changing damping characteristics is not something that drivers like, it makes it very difficult to pick the limit consistently. You should be demanding linear response to inputs, not unpredictable inconsistency.

4. I always get examples from guys in relation to their chosen brand of shock’s performance, the “I run XXXX and I beat everybody” claim. The fact is I have not seen one (not one) circuit race car in any class run Japanese shocks successfully. I can give you a tens of examples of cars that I have swapped from Japanese brand shocks to Bilsteins/Konis/Proflex/Ohlins etc that have achieved faster and more consistent lap times.

Most recently I completed the engineering on the S15 Group Buy kit. One of the test cars was previously fitted with Teins, and the driver had considerable track and set up experience with them over a couple of years of running. I replaced that suspension with the Group Buy kit and the car (no other changes, same driver) was 1.25 seconds faster at Wakefield Park. When we changed the Improved Production GTR to Proflex shocks it was 15 seconds faster over 12 laps at Oran Park, that’s the length of the straight. The equivalent in going from 8th place to 2nd place in an evenly contested field.

5. I should also mention that I don’t make any money from selling suspension, my income comes from engineering it. If I find a superior solution, then I will use it. For example in the S15 kit I am using Noltec front strut tops, not Whiteline, because they better suite the rest of the kit. When I was engineering the Skylines suspension Group Buy kits I tested many Japanese brands. They have a wide range, they look nice and shiny, they are readily available at reasonable prices. But I didn’t choose them, why? Because they simply didn’t measure up to my standards. After all I had to put my name to the kits.

In summary, I am simply putting forward my view point, based on my experience. Some people take head, others don’t, and that’s all right by me. My aim, after all, is simply to elevate the awareness on SAU of suspension and the various components and solutions available.

:laugh: cheers :w00t:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...