Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY there SAU members and guests ,need to pick a few brains ,my gtst r32 started to missfire a few months back and its gotten progressively worse and worse didnt happen all the time but one day the car could barely run all of a sudden and was diagnosed by our NISSAN dealer ship that 1 or 2 coilpacks had shit themselves ,SO i bought a set of S/F and new plugs (just the cheap copper ones ) any way put it all in and away it went sounded good etc etc then out of nowhere as the car is idleing it starts to miss again only like 10 mins after the install, but it only misses at idle as far as i can tell,it gets worse when you apply the brake or put it into gear (auto) and wants to stall , have ceaned AFM throttle body etc etc checked lines everything i can think of so need a little advice on what i could check further to diagnose this problem, ALSO dyno tunes can my car be tuned by a dynotuner if it only has a stock ECU can they adjust anything to make it run better ? and what is the usual costs charged by one as i looked into it and was told it was going to cost over $200 just for them to hook it up to see what the car is doing and that didnt include a power run does this sound right or am i being sucked in? Help me out guys as i starting to loose my love for skylines with all these costs and still no fun :D

RE dyno - you can only really adjust the base timing and check AFR's

Not sure who is stinging you $200, thats a bit rich. Should be $80-$100 for a power run and check it all

About the other stuff, more details of the car.

How much boost?

Whats the plug gap?

What part number is on the plugs?

Have you checked all the ignitor/coil pack connectors for corrosion?

Have you checked the loom for frayed wires?

Is the battery in good condition?

Whats the idle set to?

Whats the base timing set too?

Lots of detail that we need to get a better idea &/or things to check further

RE dyno - you can only really adjust the base timing and check AFR's

Not sure who is stinging you $200, thats a bit rich. Should be $80-$100 for a power run and check it all

About the other stuff, more details of the car.

How much boost?

Whats the plug gap?

What part number is on the plugs?

Have you checked all the ignitor/coil pack connectors for corrosion?

Have you checked the loom for frayed wires?

Is the battery in good condition?

Whats the idle set to?

Whats the base timing set too?

Lots of detail that we need to get a better idea &/or things to check further

I thought $200 plus was high thats what i was told by HAG engineering in YAMBA nsw, boost is 10 -11 psi has a highrise s/s and t3 turbo doesnt have a boost controller so not boosted , plug gap is .7 ,part number 2330 BCPR6ES did the search, as i didnt want to replace my irdiums as they are $20 a pop, did check the connectors and they wernt corroded but a few were broken inside so i silconed them up to sit straight and tight which could be the prob but dont think so as the car used to run perfectly since i bought it , no frayed wires anywhere , battery is a bit shit didnt think that would have any impact on idleing, but car has always started fine and is alarmed sensored, idle has always sat right on 1000rpm without a beat , have no idea about the base timing could you enlighten R31 nismoid?

do a search for my user name, and splitfires. Mine did it after i spent a shit load of money, it turned otu to be the ecu, simply instead of a boost cut, i got missfire.

Yeah i was reading your threads as you posted them and was thinking shit im going through that there goes 1k plus ,so you think my ECU might be f$@%# eh , im going to put my old plugs back in might be a waste of time but i can recheck everything as i do it and also look a bit closer at split pipes etc, how did you come to the conclusion that it was your ECU WogsRus ?

I got a new remaped ecu with R%R removed, and hay presto no issues.

The ecu was fine, but for some reason, the mappign was such, that under R&R, it had so much retatrd on the timming, it would missfire.

I am also about to put through a grounding kit, as the R33 ground is S H I T E.

BUt so far so good, but saying that, it still does have a bit of a cough sometimes. LOL.

DAM TURBOS>

Quick dyno run should be cheap - $30 to $80, for any diagnostics expect to pay full tote labour rates too.

Umm, check the plug that connects into the AFM, make sure it is plugged in real tight (clicks).

Perhaps spray contact cleaner on the afm plug internals ?

I had this problem recently and it was the plug to the afm that had come *slightly* loose. Replaced the sparkies, siliconed up the coil packs and was running as rough as guts. Cleaned up the Z32 afm (afm and plug) with brake cleaner, clicked it back in tight and properly, problem solved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...