Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That you Zubin?? If so, HELLO!!! :)

I had G-grids on my previous car, and I loved them! (but that was a Laser and a whole different story LOL)

If your Falken's are crap, why not try the the G-grids? If they're just sitting there (and if you can't afford 901's) then it can't hurt!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158-which-tyre/#findComment-4096
Share on other sites

OK... the reason why i say my Falkens are crap (NOTE not ALL Falken) is because:

a) I understeer 8O in the wet around corners at any moderate speed

B) traction is completely non-existant in the wet. :lol:

c) when giving it some, the transition from 1st to 2nd (in the dry) makes the back step out heaps. And my car is STOCK.

In the past 20,000 k's they dont seem to have worn at all, so i guess thats an ok thing. What pressure do you guys run.... i found that @ approx 36psi (warm) i got better grip than @ 30-32psi.

I will see if i can change to the g-grid II's and see what change there is...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158-which-tyre/#findComment-4108
Share on other sites

I got a set of FM901s a few weeks ago from Mathews Tyres Chatswood

235/45 17

255/40 17

$1010 plus ~$30 for some super duper balance job....

They are noisier (road rumble) than the pirelli/michelin combo I had on but grip seems pretty good. I had one delaminate at Wakefield when they were 5 days and ~400 km old. It had a groovy beat to it while I limped back to the pits... :lol:

Mathews were not very helpful at first but after some "discussion" they got on to Dunlop and found a place in Goulburn to look after me.

Took the stuffed tyre to Beaurepaires Brookvale and they had a new one for me next day no charge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158-which-tyre/#findComment-4111
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...