Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

I was offered a Trust Single Turbo Manifold from a fellow forum member for an extremely reasonable price, and could not turn it down. Due to the fact we already have issues with the stock twins clearing the steering parts, I feel this should resolve these issues, and keep us from having to pull the motor everytime something goes wrong on the exhaust side of the car.

I'm now changing directions, and will be selling the twins.

I'd love to see 650-700whp out of this turbo, as I dont know my 240SX will take much more.

I can't put 400whp to the ground, so there is no need shooting for another 500-600whp on top of that. (Even though my block was built for it.)

Due to the fact I just blew half my turbo budget on a manifold, I will be sticking with something journal bearing to save cash. I can always upgrade later, but getting my car back on the street is my first priority.

I'd be curious to hear your suggestions.

It's been modified to a raised T4 divided flange, so that the previous owner could use his GT42R setup. It was on a R32 GTR Drag Car.

The wastegate piping was modified to fit a HKS 60mm wastegate.

Here are some photos for the manifold.

GTRFORSALE024.jpg

GTRFORSALE025.jpg

GTRFORSALE026.jpg

GTRFORSALE027.jpg

GTRFORSALE028.jpg

with the t4 flange you prob best with the t04z but that might be abit over the top for the powere your chasing?

Yes, I am leaning toward the T04Z myself.

Yes, I am leaning toward the T04Z myself.

you will want something that is twin scroll for sure. The T04Z doesnt work as well in a twin scroll as some of the GT wheels becuase it uses a P trim 11 blade turbine wheel (gt are 10 blade).

my advice is a twin scroll 40R housing on a 4088 non ball bearing... great bang for the buck. it will have much better response than the 66.5mm/84mm 72 lb/min t04z becuase its a lower trim (64.5mm/88mm)

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
you will want something that is twin scroll for sure. The T04Z doesnt work as well in a twin scroll as some of the GT wheels becuase it uses a P trim 11 blade turbine wheel (gt are 10 blade).

my advice is a twin scroll 40R housing on a 4088 non ball bearing... great bang for the buck. it will have much better response than the 66.5mm/84mm 72 lb/min t04z becuase its a lower trim (64.5mm/88mm)

Hum, what about the smaller GT42 non ball-bearing version?

How would that compare?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...