Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 / Nissan Non-replaceable uni joint best option?


Recommended Posts

Eurgh. It gets worse. Looks like I also have to spend unsexy money on a new clutch. I haven't thrown a side strap off one in 10 or 11 years. But here we are again. I suspect that I won't get a free replacement this time.

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hmm. Weird shit and bad and good luck all occurring.

Clutch did not throw anything off. Apparently has about a 40-50 thou offset in the pressure plate alignment and a hot spot on one side of the flywheel, which probably go together. Interdarsting. Hopefully the clutch vibes will be solved.

Tailshaft is having surgery. New replaceable joints in its immediate future.

On the day before the car was to go to the workshop I boosted it away from a left turn at traffic lights and got about 2 seconds and 40m down the road before there was a soft poof noise and a flood of blue smoke. My poor old ceramic turbine had finally done the honourable thing and left the housing. Pieces were politely stopped by the cat.

It appears that the death of the turbo is my fault, and not from overboosting. My airbox has been a bit shit for a while. Has broken clips and doesn't close properly and the inlet to the turbo was filthy and it has eaten away at the comp wheel and caused imbalance and that is the most likley cause of death. Do not tell my wife.

Tao will be highflowing it with a BB cartridge and the standard Neo G3 profile. And this might start the wormhole of injectors and AFM upgrades and please do not tell my wife.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/19/2023 at 4:35 PM, GTSBoy said:

Hmm. Weird shit and bad and good luck all occurring.

Clutch did not throw anything off. Apparently has about a 40-50 thou offset in the pressure plate alignment and a hot spot on one side of the flywheel, which probably go together. Interdarsting. Hopefully the clutch vibes will be solved.

Tailshaft is having surgery. New replaceable joints in its immediate future.

On the day before the car was to go to the workshop I boosted it away from a left turn at traffic lights and got about 2 seconds and 40m down the road before there was a soft poof noise and a flood of blue smoke. My poor old ceramic turbine had finally done the honourable thing and left the housing. Pieces were politely stopped by the cat.

It appears that the death of the turbo is my fault, and not from overboosting. My airbox has been a bit shit for a while. Has broken clips and doesn't close properly and the inlet to the turbo was filthy and it has eaten away at the comp wheel and caused imbalance and that is the most likley cause of death. Do not tell my wife.

Tao will be highflowing it with a BB cartridge and the standard Neo G3 profile. And this might start the wormhole of injectors and AFM upgrades and please do not tell my wife.

Ahhh... The dreaded conversation of "But it needs to be replaced as they don't make the old parts any more, so we need to change them over..."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Ahhh... The dreaded conversation of "But it needs to be replaced as they don't make the old parts any more, so we need to change them over..."

I'm trying to slide about 5% of the possibility into each phone call while I'm away!

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Non-sexy new tailshaft has eradicated the horrible driveline vibes.

Non-sexy new clutch has eradicated the horrible clutch specific driveline vibes.

Mildly sexy new turbo is..... um.... laggier than I had hoped. Boost onset appears to be very gradual now. There are all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now, so the verdict on that outcome is for the future.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eradicating horrible driveline vibes, and horrible clutch vibes is definitely sexy.

What turbo was it? From where?

A lot of people's "My bigger turbo isnt as laggy" is also because they screw more boost into it in the middle, and get "more power at X rpm than before" which is not the same as lag anyway but...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

What turbo was it? From where?

On 8/19/2023 at 4:05 PM, GTSBoy said:

Tao will be highflowing it with a BB cartridge and the standard Neo G3 profile.

My boost controller is still setup exactly as before on the stock turbo, keeping the gate shut until about 10 psi and delivering about 12 psi. That setup on the stocker gave boost starting at about 2k and as such there was noticeable extra torque in the 2-3k range. The highflow is really not interested in spooling down that low. When it comes on, around 3k, it starts to build reasonably rapidly. But the while thing is very much more progressive and linear, and I kinda prefer surfing around on the torque in higher gears, in traffic, which is where I drive it the most.

But...referring back to the "all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now", some of these are that I did not do the injectors or AFM at the same time, and the dyno is broken, so we could not satisfactorily prove that I am not running out of injector. I did give it a hit in 3rd gear (full throttle out to about 7k) and it feels like it has a fair bit of power up there. Given that I was at ~190rwkW before, and that is close to the max of the stock injectors, there is a solid chance that anything that feels faster in the top end is going to be using a lot more fuel and I therefore would be at some risk of blowing it up. I really shouldn't have even given it that hit.

I have to go do some logging in Nistune on the weekend to see if the duty cycle is worrying. In the meantime.... have to be a good boy, short shift and all that. Probably should use the enforced discipline of putting the boost controller on LO too, but that's still ~10 psi and it might still be more air flow than the injectors are good for. I don't want to just turn the boost controller off, because that will leave the gate flapping in the breeze and I'll never get any boost (and only 5 psi). Might be worth a look to see how sad it is, I suppose.

It's all a bit compromised right now, and I will no doubt have to go back to the Minister for War and Finance, cap in hand, and ask for permission to upgrade bits that didn't break! Then I'll probably find out the (040) fuel pump is old and weak and can't keep up, and the diff will need to be done again, and so on.

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Logs showed a few interesting things. I probably shouldn't have leaned on it as hard as I did with old fuel in it, because at other times this week I'm sure I heard an angry little man with a hammer. But anyway....I gave it a bit of curry and found:

  • AFM truly maxing out at 5.1V. Just. Like, it only gets there at the very peak of the logs. It's not clipped at 5.1V at all.
  • Injectors went to over 17ms and reached 86% duty cycle. So, the true limit on the stock stuff is the AFM, if you want to actualy know the load.
  • Peak TP (in Nistune, the load index) was 192. My last column is 208. So....after a new AFM and injectors I have to hope that the total injection multiplier thingo does its job and I don't have to rescale.
  • Neo boost sensor saw 13+ psi during pulls and peaked at >16 psi, probably when I started to close the throttle.

CEL is on. Bloody neutral switch has died. Was working until the gearbox came out. Grr.

Petrol is enormously expensive atm and I don't want to fill it, but I'm going to have to in a day or so. Then we'll see if it still rattles at odd times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Logs showed a few interesting things. I probably shouldn't have leaned on it as hard as I did with old fuel in it, because at other times this week I'm sure I heard an angry little man with a hammer. But anyway....I gave it a bit of curry and found:

  • AFM truly maxing out at 5.1V. Just. Like, it only gets there at the very peak of the logs. It's not clipped at 5.1V at all.
  • Injectors went to over 17ms and reached 86% duty cycle. So, the true limit on the stock stuff is the AFM, if you want to actualy know the load.
  • Peak TP (in Nistune, the load index) was 192. My last column is 208. So....after a new AFM and injectors I have to hope that the total injection multiplier thingo does its job and I don't have to rescale.
  • Neo boost sensor saw 13+ psi during pulls and peaked at >16 psi, probably when I started to close the throttle.

CEL is on. Bloody neutral switch has died. Was working until the gearbox came out. Grr.

Petrol is enormously expensive atm and I don't want to fill it, but I'm going to have to in a day or so. Then we'll see if it still rattles at odd times.

This is terrifying stuff. I put a Nismo collector for that sweet 2% power boost on and I've been arguing with some local owners for days that it's fine because after the CA emissions compliance cats the TP index never gets to 88. Even with the HKS turbos at 0.9 kg/cm^2 wastegate boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meh. I knew it would happen. The only question was whether I would have to turn the boost down a little or a lot. The above numbers come from running my controller on LO, which (setup on the original turbo) gave up a couple of psi LESS compared to the HI setting.

I had left it on HI for the first test drives, so it must have been exceeding the AFM limit and running close to or perhaps over 100% DC. That is what's scary. At least it didn't get too much of that.

It seems a lot softer with the lower boost setting, so....it clearly wants and needs more. Thus...

Injectors and AFM upgrade are on the short term plan now. But I have to go away again for a few weeks, so the car will sit.

Edited by GTSBoy
Added LESS, meaning about 9 psi, cf 11 or 12 on HI.
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could do a R35 card MAF, post IC and short term bump up the injector base pressure to 4bar.

Just need to put in an arbitrary number for the injector flow rate, and adjust the latency till it idles at stoich with the O2 feedback off.

Or, PM me, I can help with sourcing parts for you. Just have a look on EFI Solution and tell me what you need 😎

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offers JDose. My bro-in-law is my mechanic and will sort me out for bits and pieces. He can get Xspurts at v.good prices.

R35 AFM is on the list. I already have a 3" tube adapter for it to go in the stock AFM location. Just need to cut out a flange from ally plate and TIG it on (It's currently bare tube at both ends).

With the injectors, because the ECU is Nistuned, I won't be going as big as 1000s, so we're thinking 525 - 725cc is the go. The smaller the better for not making the old Hitachi ECU bumble and fart at idle. 525s will almost certainly do for me, as I won't be getting near that much power. Realistically though, I'm reasonably confident that it will idle nice even with the 725s. I'll be lucky to do more than 250rwkW through my return flow cooler. That'll be more than enough powerz for how I use it. I'll probably tap out the old 040 fuel pump also.

Need to fix the dyno first though. It had a shit fit and it is a reeeeeeeally old DD, with the analogue control board. So it's not supported by DD anymore and we have to recalibrate the Ouija board so we can make contact with the right spirit/demon to get help for it.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...