Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts Non Turbo 5spd 4 Door - Hobart / Tas

R34_T88_Widebody
 Share

Recommended Posts

R34_T88_Widebody Rising Star

R34_T88_Widebody

Posted
Posted (edited)

car is located in hobart. can arrange freight for Vic buyers.

ideal for new p-platers.

car is very clean throughout, and has 17" alloys, factory body kit, strut brace, sports exhaust, RAZO pedals, 120K klms, very straight clean and mechanically very sound car.

asking $8900 with 6mths rego and RWC.

please PM for more details.

post-23331-1172807319.jpg

post-23331-1172807359.jpg

post-23331-1172807441.jpg

post-23331-1172807490.jpg

post-23331-1172807540.jpg

post-23331-1172807593.jpg

Edited by R34_T88_Widebody
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...
R34_T88_Widebody Rising Star

R34_T88_Widebody

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Samual - correct me if I'm wrong, but at $5500 my car is probably at the cheaper end for a 32 NA. At $15500 (and no RWC, cos you'd have to get mine from tas remember) yours is...how do I put this.....well, $15500 would be an insane price (unless it's a late Series 2 - 97/98, low klms, fully kitted, etc etc). I assume not, so if you get to hobart, I'd be willing to pay you around $5K

for others....I am happy to consider trade down as long as it is not an aussie car of similar vintage, and I get a few thou my way. I am also happy to consider trade up, as long as you;

a) price your car realistically, which means it can't be imported for about 40% less than you are asking, or I can't find 20 on carsales for 20% less, and

b) you are prepared to get to hobart to effect the swap (you can leave your car in Melbourne, but you've got to get this from hobart)

guys, it's cheap for what it is, so I'm after an easy sale. if I wanted a complex one I would have kept the price at $7900 or other unrealistic price

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...