Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just wondering what would be the best car to get after my p plates

around $25-30k

thanks

ps sorry if this is in the wrong section

:O

:)

Try a Nissan skyline, lol i read some where there really good...

There are plenty of cars out there, from evo's to wrx's, RX7's, Pulsar GTiR's there are stacks you just have to find one which suits you!

Have Fun

~Martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158790-asd/#findComment-2948689
Share on other sites

25-30 will get you a lot of skyline, check out the FS section on this site, it is really up to you...........you can get R32 GTR's, R33 Gtsts with mods, and maybe the odd desperate to sell R34GTT.

I'd think in another way, 25-30 will get you 250-300kw at the wheels = $100/kw. Lot of power for a guy coming off P's, i'd probably look for a 240kw unit and save some $$$ for head units, gauges, zorsts, tyres, bling and insurance etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158790-asd/#findComment-2948882
Share on other sites

hmm yesss insurance would be a major factor limiting your choices.

you just have to sit down and think about what you want. then look for the car that suits your needs. rwd? awd? single or big twins? supercharge even? want all show or all go or bit of both?

frankly, your question's a bit broad / vague mate. best car... for what? in terms of what? :(

deriq.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158790-asd/#findComment-2949260
Share on other sites

Hey all, just wondering what would be the best car to get after my p plates

around $25-30k

thanks

ps sorry if this is in the wrong section

:D

;)

You could easily get a R34 25GT-t for that amount of money, R33 GTST's will be around 11 - 16k, R32 GTR's 19k+ & you ca nget R33 GT-R's for high 20's low 30's. But be sure to factor in registration, insurance tyres and such.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158790-asd/#findComment-2949867
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...