Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Iv got a r33 and is nerly ready for a full paint job( full kit, eye lids,vented fenders,gtr wing,side mirrors and cf bonnet) its a dark red but i wana change it maybe candy blue,orange with gold pearl, bay side blue with pearl. I want a full paint job engine bay and so on, just wana know a ruff price iv been told to have around 15 grand which to me sounds way to much can any one who has hade it done give me a ruff price?

Cheers

DAVE

Edited by cruzin33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158851-paint-shops/
Share on other sites

15 grand should give you a show winning finish, but I am sure you could get a better price.

I had mine painted for around 7G, but didnt changew thew colour (though there was some body work to be fixed)

I will depend a lot upon how straight your panels really are (not just how they look). The secret to a good job is all in the prep work, if its not perfect you will see it worse with a coat of gloss paint on it. I would recommend Des Higgins at Parafield (he is unquestionably one of the best workshops - and I challenge anyone to contradict this) but there are other good workshops out there as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158851-paint-shops/#findComment-2950101
Share on other sites

Iv got a r33 and is nerly ready for a full paint job( full kit, eye lids,vented fenders,gtr wing,side mirrors and cf bonnet) its a dark red but i wana change it maybe candy blue,orange with gold pearl, bay side blue with pearl. I want a full paint job engine bay and so on, just wana know a ruff price iv been told to have around 15 grand which to me sounds way to much can any one who has hade it done give me a ruff price?

Cheers

DAVE

With any sort of kandy your looking at 10k to start with...bayside with a pearl any where from 6-8ish for nice respray but if your lookin at show type stuff start at 10 k with no bodywork....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158851-paint-shops/#findComment-2950855
Share on other sites

Im happy with anythink around the 10 grand mark thats with engine bay and cabin. Im starting to look around next week and thinking of moulding the gtr wing to the boot so there is gana be a lil bit of body work. Im going to get quotes from MC DOYLES,SOUTH ROAD CRASH and GLENELG CRASH.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158851-paint-shops/#findComment-2950899
Share on other sites

You may want to wait until after the next "Extreme Horesepower" / AutoSalon or Motor Show and have a look at who is doing what to the cars. Some of the bigger shops are more of your supermarket brand painter (they do the job to an OK standard) but for 10G I would be looking for an real artist.

Also look at which cars win the best paint category, some of the Bling you see at the show looks good but wont win because the attention to detail isnt there (allignment of panels, orange peel, straightness, clean panels front and back etc) you will notice these things on your own car bun wont always pick them on someone elses at the show.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158851-paint-shops/#findComment-2950974
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...