Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone. im just curious, is it possible to get the R34GTR key with the immobiliser chip and button on the key to work in an R32GTR? if its possible, would the ignition barrel and the door lock barrels need to be changed? ie: different key shape?

ideas? thoughts?

Cheers, Ron :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158921-r34gtr-key-in-an-r32gtr/
Share on other sites

the keyless part - yep. you will need the module,actuator for the drivers door and the lock cylinder. barrells are different so its not a direct swap.

as for the transponder - no. its integrated back through the ECU.

easier way would be to copy your key then trim it to fit into the 34 head.

one question-why?

the keyless part - yep. you will need the module,actuator for the drivers door and the lock cylinder. barrells are different so its not a direct swap.

as for the transponder - no. its integrated back through the ECU.

easier way would be to copy your key then trim it to fit into the 34 head.

one question-why?

why? meh. something different. my 32gtr key is about to snap and standard cut keys from the shop look crap. i can get 32gtr keys for the same price as 34gtr keys and i reckon they 34s look better.

id be happy if the key button could be programed into an aftermarket alarm. keyless entry and alarm immobiliser on off button build onto the key would be better then this crappy alarm button i have now.

why? meh. something different. my 32gtr key is about to snap and standard cut keys from the shop look crap. i can get 32gtr keys for the same price as 34gtr keys and i reckon they 34s look better.

id be happy if the key button could be programed into an aftermarket alarm. keyless entry and alarm immobiliser on off button build onto the key would be better then this crappy alarm button i have now.

ok. I see why now. if thats the case you would need the key/control unit paired up. that would have to be done IN THE CAR. from there you can use an upgrade alarm and trigger that off the OE key. you need the matching unit though before ANY of this can happen.

The R34 had a different key to the R32. You would need to change ignition barrel, door locks and boot lock for it to physically fit.

i thought this might be true. i was guessing they could have beenthe same as the key shapes kinda look the same but ive only seen them on the comp. i was thinking of removing the barrels from the doors and boot so u need to button to get in but then what if it fails....

this could be tricky to pull off if i did it. i guess ill just stick with the stock key shape...

thanks guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...