Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

may i ask why ur askin about 0-100 times?

what mods are u planning and il give you a little idea on what youd run down the 1/4

hey mate just wanted to no wat times some of you are gettnig.

i have air pod, full cat back exhaust including dump, front mount, running 12 psi of boost. and next am wanting to put in a aftermarket ecu

hey sorry man i aint got msn hey. i am chasing around the 220 mark mate.

will need to upgrade turbo to get that wont i. and clutch and fuel pump and so on

u will need an aftermarket ecu or piggyback, hiflow turbo and bigger fuel pump, stock turbz will probably chit itself at that power level

Edited by R33GOD
u will need an aftermarket ecu or piggyback, hiflow turbo and bigger fuel pump, stock turbz will probably chit itself at that power level

yeh i was thinking about getting a new ecu put in. and at that power level i will be needing to replace my clutch to wont i. is there any way that the standard broad minded personch will handle that power? even if its new as?

how uch would high flowing y turbo cost? it will be a bit wont it

yeh i was thinking about getting a new ecu put in. and at that power level i will be needing to replace my clutch to wont i. is there any way that the standard broad minded personch will handle that power? even if its new as?

how uch would high flowing y turbo cost? it will be a bit wont it

wat kind of power van i be expecting if i dont high flow the turbo and i just keep the mods i have and get a new ecu?? and will i have to replace the fuel pump then?

yeh i was thinking about getting a new ecu put in. and at that power level i will be needing to replace my clutch to wont i. is there any way that the standard broad minded personch will handle that power? even if its new as?

how uch would high flowing y turbo cost? it will be a bit wont it

yes u definately will have to change ur clutch. as for a hiflow turbo u can get a sliding performance one for $1040 delivered.

your mods wont stop there lol

wat kind of power van i be expecting if i dont high flow the turbo and i just keep the mods i have and get a new ecu?? and will i have to replace the fuel pump then?

should see 200rwk and yes replace the stock fuel pump and buy a safc2. should have a nice little package once u do that

Edited by R33GOD
yes u definately will have to change ur clutch. as for a hiflow turbo u can get a sliding performance one for $1040 delivered.

your mods wont stop there lol

yeh i van get a high flow turbo for just over a grand hey. that is good as. that means that i wont have to replace the manifold or so will i? when putting a high flow on is there anything else i need to do?? external wastegate or anything?

yeh i van get a high flow turbo for just over a grand hey. that is good as. that means that i wont have to replace the manifold or so will i? when putting a high flow on is there anything else i need to do?? external wastegate or anything?

no u wont need an external wastegate, as for the manifold keep it stock. beats getting picked on by the cops

if u can drive u might be able to crack a 12.9

so high flow turbo and thats all. dont have to change anthing else. sounds great to me.

yeh 12.9s would be great. my dump pipe and front mount go on this week, then i will search for an ecu and fuel pump. would a gtr fuel pump be a good upgrade??

so high flow turbo and thats all. dont have to change anthing else. sounds great to me.

yeh 12.9s would be great. my dump pipe and front mount go on this week, then i will search for an ecu and fuel pump. would a gtr fuel pump be a good upgrade??

good fuel pump upgrade yes. u dont need a hiflow turbo to crack a high 12

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...