Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh thats right.

For that price it comes with 17inch blitz wheels, standard 4pot brakes and no cage.

There is lots of money spent on the car, so i'm not sure how much lower i have to go, but i am keen to sell so make an offer if you like.

Any test welcome.

cheers.

ahh ok so are they the rims that are on it at the moment?? im currently waiting on some money coming if it still for sale in 4 weeks u mite have a sale---maybe

this car definitely looks the goods, and price aint bad also

i'm actually after a gtr, but this one seems a little too hardcore for me, 300+kw geez.....wanting something a little more streetable !

this car definitely looks the goods, and price aint bad also

i'm actually after a gtr, but this one seems a little too hardcore for me, 300+kw geez.....wanting something a little more streetable !

Buddy Its Not like your going to be driving 300 Kws on the street you Can Always Drive the car on Standard Boost ? I personally think its good value Free bump...

Buddy Its Not like your going to be driving 300 Kws on the street you Can Always Drive the car on Standard Boost ? I personally think its good value Free bump...

good point, i'd still be a bit worried about the clutch on this though, racingline could you shed some light on how difficult it is to drive the with the button clutch ?

this car looks so god damn good, i'm so tempted

tarogo, The clutch is as easy to drive as a standard one. No shudder, hard pedal, etc etc. Its a cussion button, not a normal puck style unit that you would have heard were hard to drive.

Lexrex, Not at the moment, need the cash.

cheers.

good point, i'd still be a bit worried about the clutch on this though, racingline could you shed some light on how difficult it is to drive the with the button clutch ?

this car looks so god damn good, i'm so tempted

I don't know what clutch this is, by my car has 300rwkw and i drive it everyday with a nice single plate clutch. Let my mate drive it the other day who hasn't driven manual in ages, he didn't bunny hope or stall it or anything once, he couldn't believe how easy/nice it was to drive.

if the clutch is as easy to drive as you guys have mentioned.... then i'm very interested!

do you have pics of the rims that will come with the car? and will there be any prob getting a rwc for this?

and you taking offers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...