Jump to content
SAU Community

Funny Surge.

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

Well ok so my R33 has been funny, allong with some other issues, like cold start.

No idea what is going on. The car has been tuned and so forht, and runs great normally. However, i have some funny surge with the car. At 2500 rpm, in second if i floor it, boost comes up to 14 psi, as preset, and the car kinda surges, well it accelerates, then stops a bit, goes to 3500 and takes off agian and stops a bit, and then form 4500rpm it's fine, no issies at all.

What can this be, It only doe sit on higher boost settings.

BTW the turbo is stock, and i don't normally run it at 14 psi. Car mods as per my sig.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/
Share on other sites
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Showing my ignorance, but what is a Central 20 ECU?

Sounds a bit like electronic intervention to me.

2 much fuel or missfire? r33's normally run rich on higher boost... i had the same problem with my car so i turned it down and left it what it was tuned at lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/#findComment-2956043
Share on other sites
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

How about failsafe?

Maybe they've retained/modified some of the protection parameters. The AFM reports flow voltages in excess of what is deemed "safe" by the tuners, pushing into map cells that they say it shouldn't do if operating at a certain boost level.

Then it just goes through a series of rich/retard steps to discourage the driver. Guys running stock ECU report the same phenomenon but generally at lower boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/#findComment-2956117
Share on other sites
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Compressor surge has nothing to do with an electronic tune.

It is about the physical inability of the engine to ingest the mass of air that the compressor is delivering. It is generally associated with big compressors and small capacity engines running a bit of boost. Garrett offers a really informative tutorial here http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech103.html to explain the phenomenon.

Original post indicated a stock turbo, running higher than stock boost. Very very unlikely to be surge @ 14psi.

Edited by Dale FZ1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/#findComment-2956834
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

Buy a Z32 air flow meter and retune the safc to suit?

tune it at say 12psi and keep it there (stnd turbo)

or tune it at 14psi, your call

If you want 14psi talk to Slide about a highflow :happy:

that'd sort out alllll the issues, Im sure

* could possibly be the stnd afm maxxing out at the points you mention..................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/#findComment-2957202
Share on other sites
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
tune it at say 12psi and keep it there (stnd turbo)

or tune it at 14psi, your call

If you want 14psi talk to Slide about a highflow :happy:

that'd sort out alllll the issues, Im sure

* could possibly be the stnd afm maxxing out at the points you mention..................

I'd agree there is a good chance of failure if he's wanting to run it at 14. I wasn't prepared to run mine any higher than stock, knowing that elevated speeds would eventually result in the turbine rotor parting company with the shaft.

Slide's product would be a useful upgrade, but quite frankly a useless change unless the ECU is able to support it. And it seems that the ECU currently won't handle the mass air flow capacity of a stock turbo @ 14psi.

It's not a case of the AFM "maxing out" though, just exceeding tuner defined parameters within the ECU settings at those lower engine speed ranges.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159298-funny-surge/#findComment-2957248
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...