Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159377-hicas-light-glowing-on-dash/
Share on other sites

I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

so your saying that the HICAS sign is constantly glowing?? fluid can be purchased at super cheap auto or repco or any other car shop like that..

  • 3 weeks later...
I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

Hey GTRIIN,

OK - I'll post a serious answer for you - I hope

The HICAS is the four wheel steer - and as far as I know - if the light is on, your 4WS will be off line.

If you have a non-std steering wheel, without a proper 4WS boss kit (which has a 4WS sensor in it apparently) - that will cause this problem. I thought this only happened after exceeding 80klms / hr (which is when the HICAS actually starts to work). So if it's on ALL THE TIME - this may not be your problem.

If you are low on steering fluids - this will cause the HICAS light to come on. If your light is on all the time - this seems like a good place to start.

Lastly, this seems to be a common problem with the older GTRs (I have an '89 R32 GTR BTW). HICAS seems to be more trouble than it's worth. Long term you may want to look at a getting a HICAS locking kit installed, and then just pull the HICAS bulb from behind the dash.

my 2c worth :(

Edited by itbmils
Hey GTRIIN,

OK - I'll post a serious answer for you - I hope

The HICAS is the four wheel steer - and as far as I know - if the light is on, your 4WS will be off line.

If you have a non-std steering wheel, without a proper 4WS boss kit (which has a 4WS sensor in it apparently) - that will cause this problem. I thought this only happened after exceeding 80klms / hr (which is when the HICAS actually starts to work). So if it's on ALL THE TIME - this may not be your problem.

If you are low on steering fluids - this will cause the HICAS light to come on. If your light is on all the time - this seems like a good place to start.

Lastly, this seems to be a common problem with the older GTRs (I have an '89 R32 GTR BTW). HICAS seems to be more trouble than it's worth. Long term you may want to look at a getting a HICAS locking kit installed, and then just pull the HICAS bulb from behind the dash.

my 2c worth :D

my 89 gtr drives fine for a couple mins, then the steering goes heavy, then the hicas light comes on further down the road, i had a feeling this is too do with the ecu so im borrowing the ecu from a GTSt today to see if it remedies the problem, if it does i will try write up a 'how to stop a damaged ecu guide' as the ecu physically looks fine inside, other than that i may have to remove the hicas, something i dont really want too do

woot woot!

sucsess.

Vehicle: R32 GTR

Problem: After a minute or two the steering becomes heavy, soon followed by the HICAS light illuminating on the dash cluster.

My Solution: HICAS ECU is kaput! This can be located in the boot on the drivers side under the parcel shelf.

How to test yours: Under the parcel shelf three 10mm head bolts hold in the ECU, undo these then unclip the ECU, replace with one from a car with working HICAS. For my test I used the HICAS ECU from a R32 GTSt, worked excellently, only took 5 mins to d the swap and back, and probably about 10 minutes driving it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...