Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I they are both 1990's. The green one I have owned for a year and a half and havnt had the chance to beat up on it yet. I was going to finish it this past month but I found another one on Yahoo I just couldnt pass up so I might sell the first one or keep it as a spare incase I crash the brown one into the wall drifting :ninja:

Ceffy number 1. Some of the parts are sitting in the trunk waiting for me to throw on. Still needs tune very badly!!!!

Mod's

-RB30DET w/R33 RB25 N/A cyl head. STD cams at this moment :(

-RB25 trans

-GTR PP w/metal clutch 3 puck. Might use a OS twin plate late.

-R33 Clutch master cyl

-R32 brake maser cyl

-GT35R

-RX7 550's injectors

-Greddy oil cooler

-custom relocation kit/lines and thermostat

-Series 2 NEO6 coil's conversion

-HKS 44mm gate

-custom exhaust and intercooler set-up

-Q45 MAF

-Custom eprom tune. Waiting for f-con V pro :mad:

-5 lug conversion F:GTR R:R33 GTS25T

-auto to 5 speed conversion

-floor to hand brake conversion

-S13 subframe.

-All Hicas gone!!!

-Zeal super function coilovers 8k 10k for now. Some pre load.

-TC rods

-steering spacer

-alum sub frame spacers

-FNOR1 F:17"X10" R: 17"X8" Got some P1 17"X9" 215 for front for the drifto.

-Front sway pillow joints, adj.

-Recaro solid bucket

-Spin knob

-Blitz oil press

-Blitz water temp

-280km Nismo speedo

-R32 clutch and brake peddles

-momo wheel w/spacer

-Nismo shift knob

-Quick shift shifter

Plans for the next few months: Have most the parts, just have to get it done.

-GTR shimmed diff/axles convesion

-AP racing calipars/rotors up front

-get tune with 450whp. Limited from injectors. I will see how I like it then will prob upgrade to larger set

-Sway bars

-Cusco RUCA's

-Tie rod spacers, Jic tie rods

-Hicas rack

-finish welding

-Cusom strut bars and chassies bracing

-Lighten this bitch up

p1030077sw3.jpg

p1030076ue5.jpg

p1030078gb8.jpg

Ceffy number 2: Loading the container this month and should be burning rubber in another 6 weeks or so :P Got a guy close to me that really knows his v-pros so I should have this running like a new luxus.

Mod's:

-R33 RB26DETT

-HKS GT-SS Turbo’s

-R33 GTR N1 oil pump

-HKS F-con V pro

-No AFM

-HKS boost controller 1.1 Low 1.4 high

-GTR FMIC w/custom alum piping

-Trust 2 layer alum radiator

-Trust electric fan X2

-Trust 15 layer oil cooler w/filter relocation

-Aftermarket exhaust.

-Aftermarket down pipe

-Aftermarket air filters

-GTR fuel pump

-OS cross-mission 1st-3rd gear

-Nismo carbon clutch R33

-Nismo light flywheel

-“Bolltech??” 2-way LSD. Not sure of exact brand. Confusion in translation

-Autometer oil temp, water temp, boost, oil pressure and tachometer

-Greddy electric fan controller

-Bride Brix driver seat

-Shift knob

-Nardi steering wheel

-CD player and speakers or some sort

-Tire Advan Neova. F: 235/40/R17 R: 245/40/R17

-Cusco comp Zero. 5 way adj Coilovers

-Front T/C rods

-Cusco rear RUCA’s

-Hicas canceled

-R33 GTR Brembo brakes, front and rear w/5 lug conversion

-Cusco front strut bar

-Full aero body

-Dark Brown purl

cefiro3gj7.jpg

cefiro2or5.jpg

cefiro6gs2.jpg

cefiro1cb6.jpg

cefiro4zj3.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159568-my-ceffies/
Share on other sites

Well look who it is...this is great, Canadians on a Aus site, lol. Those whips are lookin fine! To bad your in Edmonton now, makes it a little harded to do a cefiro cruze. I can't wait to see them out.

I should get pic going for my car...I have the engine out and I'm prepping the bay for stitch welding and paint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159568-my-ceffies/#findComment-2962495
Share on other sites

HE HAS THE PASENGER SIDE AIR VENT COVER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i got one for free from mates wrecked ceffy last week

mwahahaqhaha

mr canadian - can i have your drivers side square thingy on the dash just near the windscreen... it does something... it connects to climate control i think... possibly in cabin sensor?

btw i notice you have pillowball swaybar links... are they jic? where you get them from? give me details!

Edited by Hella Flush
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159568-my-ceffies/#findComment-2963768
Share on other sites

i got one for free from mates wrecked ceffy last week

mwahahaqhaha

mr canadian - can i have your drivers side square thingy on the dash just near the windscreen... it does something... it connects to climate control i think... possibly in cabin sensor?

btw i notice you have pillowball swaybar links... are they jic? where you get them from? give me details!

Not exactly sure of what your talking about.

Not sure on the sway links. A Brazilian friend smashed his Silvia and striped it and I noticed he left the links cuz I was wrecking the car for him so it was a freebee. I was going to make some with QA1 parts but still not sure if its worth it. Prob best to just fork out the coin and get some good sways I guess :)

I’m not a fan of the FNO1RC's at all. They were cheap as chips and had good rubber and they fit better than a standard wheel. I also needed something in 5 lug and this option came to me. Id like to change to something else but for this year I just want to have fun and race it so rims are going to be swapped very often for battle unit rims.

As for the RB30's, I got a friend in ausi that sent a bunch to a business partner in Japan and I met him there and we built one together. He set me up with another pallet of them for Canada. Not big sellers here tho.Canadians are pussies!!!! They rather build RB24's for twice the money so I got to show people what they are missing out on.

In canada we still have a 15 year rule so its easy as pie to get them in. Transport canada is changing this im thinking within the next 6 months or so. They are not even giving us a chance for compliances so this is why im getting the cars I want before it gets harder and more expensive to get them in.

Edited by RB30 Ceffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159568-my-ceffies/#findComment-2964855
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...