Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Running Rich

rmahnovetsky
 Share

Recommended Posts

rmahnovetsky Proficient

rmahnovetsky

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys

I have a problem with my R33 GTS-t running rich on idle. I can smell the fuel and I can see it with consult. On idle it will never go lean.

I have had an idle issue since day dot and have been trying to diagnose the problem. I bought a new oxygen sensor which is the ford type and I seems to using a litle more fuel then before .i.e getting about 10.4/100 instead of high nines. I wonder if the ford type is not a perfect match???? Though I could smell fuel even before that.

Does anyone know what might cause rich fuel mixture on idle?

MOds: full exhaust, 040 fuel pump, safc, intercooler. K&N filter (square type).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159902-idle-running-rich/
Share on other sites
rmahnovetsky Proficient

rmahnovetsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

2 year ago I got the fuel injector ultrasonically cleaned. The cleaner said the injectors were fine and didin't even need cleaning. So I guess they dont leak then.

I swapped the fuel regulator and the AAC valve with a mates and still had the same issue.

Thanks for your input unfortunately thats not the answer for my problem ;)

rmahnovetsky Proficient

rmahnovetsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

RANDY: I don't know if reading rich is normal on idle. I just presume that idling rich is no good, fowling up plugs etc. My old o2 senser was rattly and maybe the ford copy is not the same as the nissan o2 sensor and thus still giving me problems?

Adriano: ECU codes show no faults. On idle at ~700rpm the AFM is showing 0.98.

skylinecouple: Water temp reading 80 degrees when the motor is warmed up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • dyl33
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By dyl33 路 Posted

      Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • dbm7
      R34 Gt Auto Tuning

      By dbm7 路 Posted

      Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
    • GTR ZOAH
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By GTR ZOAH 路 Posted

      Welcome 馃槈
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gt Auto Tuning

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.
脳
脳
  • Create New...