Jump to content
SAU Community

How can i improve my 1/4 time

Guest KILLER-T

By Guest KILLER-T,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest KILLER-T

Guest KILLER-T

Posted
Posted

Hi i am looking to better my 1/4 mile times the last time i took my car to the drags i ran a best time of 13.9 which i wasnt to happy with.I was thinking i should atleast be in the 13.5's with 244rwhp but it was not going to happen i think that maybe i should go for a set of softer shockies on the back because the ones on the back are rock hard would this make a differance to my times or is 13.9 abut right for my power output :?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16-how-can-i-improve-my-14-time/
Share on other sites
two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

Definately take your car to a suspension specialist and ask them to set it up for 1/4 mile runs ie. non-lateral driving style. Suspension plays a bigger part in performance than most people give it credit for.

I don't want to sound like I'm bragging but this is a good example. My car blew off more powerful cars due to it's suspension setup, around the track and 0-100. This was on Serious Performance #5. I couldn't believe it myself to be honest.

Guest KILLER-T

Guest KILLER-T

Posted
Posted

I had a look at some adjustable shocks for the back today it looks like it will be about $1000 a cnr to fit which is a bit more than i can spend rite now since i need to pay a few things before i can do any more to my car i was told that i should also get a camber adjustment kit for my car because the car has been droped a bit and the rear wheels need a bit of adjustment and to also get rid of the khumos of the back they r 255 40 17's so it will be another $1000 for a good set of rear tyres damm i need more monie or a second job :oops:

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...