Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples, I am selling my Pulsar to make way for an R34 sedan. Car is located in Brisbane, and will be sold with balance of rego and RWC.

This car has many mods, but all of them culminate in ~130kW atw, so she is a quick little beastie.

It has been used on a daily basis by my wife mainly, and is in great nick.

A few key points:

- 2001 N16 Q sedan "sports" model of the range

- 1.8lt DOHC running 9psi boost, Motor done 143K easy running -- Definately not thrashed!

- Full custom install running a T25g

- Apexi SAFC2 giving the extra fuel, stock ECU doing the main work

- Front mount with all stainless pipework

- 17" Speedy Holotype R wheels

- lowered on custom Kings springs and KYB Excel G struts.

- Full 2.5" system, finishing with a SS cannon 4" tip

- All electrics (mirrors, windows)

- Tinted windows

- Pioneer MP3 H/U, with line in

- DVD Player running into 2 LCD screens (Visor and drop down mounted)

- Mod plated

+ many more!

I WILL SWAP FOR AN R33/34 SEDAN TURBO AND CASH YOUR WAY TOO!

I'm looking at $14,000 for it (ono)

Pics! Click on the thumbs, I have many more on request

Call me for info on 0422 446 113, reply or PM here as well.

th_P1000789.jpg

th_P1010437.jpg

th_P1010435.jpg

th_P1010434.jpg

th_P1000584.jpg

th_P1010712.jpg

th_P1010713.jpg

Edited by rasoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160129-fs-2001-n16-pulsar-q-turbo/
Share on other sites

Its Anthricite (very dark browny Grey), nice colour actually.

And yes, I am after a R34 sedan, I should have pointed that out. But, I am after a GTT too, so unless its a N/A I can't refuse I will have to see.

Got some pics I can have a look at?

Edited by rasoo
Its Anthricite (very dark browny Grey), nice colour actually.

And yes, I am after a R34 sedan, I should have pointed that out. But, I am after a GTT too, so unless its a N/A I can't refuse I will have to see.

Got some pics I can have a look at?

Got some with a crappy camera here, where you located? I'm in St Lucia. My eyes are a bit dicky on colour, how's it come up when a bit dusty? Got more pics? Could you email to [email protected]

Got some with a crappy camera here, where you located? I'm in St Lucia. My eyes are a bit dicky on colour, how's it come up when a bit dusty? Got more pics? Could you email to [email protected]

I'm in Kingston mate.

Its not as bad as black/dark blue, has to be really dirty to see the dirt.

Send pics to [email protected]

What sort of pics do you want?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...