Jump to content
SAU Community

Is The 33 Gtr And 34 Gtr Clutches Different?

ricknismo
 Share

Recommended Posts

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Possibly due to the getrag box???

I'm not sure,I was going to reco a 33 gtr twin plate for my 34, but I don't want to waste my time.

Not the same Rick. Get a Nismo coppermix twin mate you will be very happy with it, I know they are pricey.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
So you have to change the flywheel when you even get a single plate if the flywheel needs machining at all? And does that mean that a 33 GTR twin which comes with its own flywheel is ok?

Rick I think you will find the spline on the shaft is different so the 33GTR clutch is no good to you .

R34 GTR flywheels are dual mass ( 2 piece ) just like subaru liberty .

ned Enthusiast

ned

Posted
Posted
I agree with that and the latest coppermix is even better.

I spoke at length with wrxhoon and others before deciding that for the mainly commuting and road driving (vs drags or track work), i was better with a single which Jim Berry built for me with uprated pressure plate, and new single mass flywheel. It was obviously cheaper, but was even lighter clutch action and a dream to use on my daily sydney commute. I am really happy, I know wrxhoon is happy with his coppermix, and others will be with theirs, so its probably about application 1st, then decide on the best clutch brand material etc etc.

Cheers

Ned

ricknismo Grand Master

ricknismo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I spoke to Jim berry and he does go for the single, but at $1800 with flywheel I believe I could get a nengun nismo twin in...unless I can find a better value single which sounds like it needs a flywheel anyway, I might just have to keep saving.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted

are the nismo twin plates noisy at all? just wondering because a mate of mine has a F6 with a $4000 twin plate from over east which is meant to handle 1000rwhp but at idle its pretty damn noisy. His clutch is very hardcore, but i wouldnt want a clutch in daily driver that was making rattles and what not.

ronnydotk Contributor

ronnydotk

Posted
Posted
are the nismo twin plates noisy at all? just wondering because a mate of mine has a F6 with a $4000 twin plate from over east which is meant to handle 1000rwhp but at idle its pretty damn noisy. His clutch is very hardcore, but i wouldnt want a clutch in daily driver that was making rattles and what not.

thats most likely to be the gearbox not the clutch if it goes away with the clutch pedal depressed.

its normal for a bit of noise in the gearbox when idleing. put the foot on the clutch and it should go away though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...