Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the IAC valve on my car is munted and the car has a permanent 1200rpm idle, not a problem realy while driving but its annoying.

nissan quoted me $898 ex Japan for a new on, so I thought I could rip it off and bypass the problem with a Apexi Power FC.

anyone know if this is possible?

cheers

the IAC valve on my car is munted and the car has a permanent 1200rpm idle, not a problem realy while driving but its annoying.

nissan quoted me $898 ex Japan for a new on, so I thought I could rip it off and bypass the problem with a Apexi Power FC.

anyone know if this is possible?

cheers

Nope, PFC uses the same idle control as standard. Have you tried cleaning the AAC valve? The FAQ in the maintenance section tells you how.

:w00t: cheers :O

Ive removed mine aswell as the air regulator. Been like this for almost 2 years now no probs at all and power fc is still happy. :D Some after market plenums dont use them either so i thought meh....

Edited by 33SOM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...