Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i got my rb25det r31 and it free revs well.

But once you put load on it driving it starts to rev and then breaks down and wont rev, and starts backfiring as if it was a limiter noise...

when you change gears the bov makes a high pitched whistle instead of the normal rb25det bov noise, but thats in 1st and 2nd but from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th it makes the normal noises...

and when you do the limiter revving under load noise when you put the clutch in the revs drop down then it revs back up

free revs all the way out but wont rev under load

what could it be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160907-rb25det-breaks-down-under-load/
Share on other sites

coil packs or spark plugs. there are a few different fixes for the misfiring problem.

#1 - gap your spark plugs to .8mm (do that if not already done)

#2 - fix your coil packs, there are a few threads around on how to do this.

as for the bov sound, im not too sure if this fits the sound you described but it might be turbo chatter, where your bov doesnt actually open, the noise you're hearing is the air passing back onto the turbo blades.

Hey you are reading my mind but about four months earlier, If you have played with intercooler and a boost controller on the car you would have noticed that a nipple would be missing on the inlet part of the pipe before the bov that is the vacuum pipe that opens the actuator on the internal waste gate and if you dont have that hooked up you will hit max load causing seveire breakdown at 2k trust me i had the exact problem!!! easy way to fix it is to simply put a T valve in on the blow off valve hose that goes to near the back of the plenum!! that will get rid of your break down at 2k.. P.M if ya want a photo!

made a slight difference but still breaks down, but you can get past the banging and then it tries to pull.. could it be a fuel problem?

but what concerns me is, i gave it a boot full and then went to go into my driveway, stopped and the car stalled, then i started it again and it stalled again but started it and gave it a rev and it idled fine...

its quite farken easy u see...

u get a gapping tool, pick the gap u want, get ur spark plug out, tap them on the ground softly until the gapping ruler u are using fits between the sparking element and the underside of the tip. ur spark plugs come pregapped at 1.1 thats not enough for boost past 6-7psi. that will work, if ur unsure how to do it, go to ur mechanic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...